Weal Sea Travelogue
Dan & Pat Harrington

Chicago to Bahamas, C34
E-Mail Dan and Pat at: saildan@pocketmail.com
They would love to hear from you!
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July 2005
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September 2005

9-1-05
(Th), Erie Canal, Sylvan Beach, NY (Eastern end of Oneida Lake): 0600 - Up & breakfast. Overcast, damp & windy with a large of surge off the lake. BP 30.01, temp 65 F.  Heavy rains all the night & canal waters are up with a significant current flowing west into the lake. This area of the canal does flood.  There is a major river, Fisher Creek, about a quarter mile up stream (east of us), which feeds water into the canal from the north. In deed, trees and debris from this river as well as some buoys!, which broke loose just up stream (due to trees dragging their chains?), are flowing past us into the lake. A canal tug is in the process of collecting the buoys and resetting them.  Paul & I walk up the canal & talk to a canal dredge-operator. He said there will likely be a continuous rise in the water over the next few hours or even a day or so. Thus, they may be closing the canal locks & opening the flood control gates down stream (east) of Sylvan Beach today. In addition, he suspects our sailboats will have trouble  making it eastward to get past the point where Fisher Creek enters the canal because of the heavy current against us and the shoaling it causes.  However, he volunteers to telephone the next lock to check its status; Its still open!, at least for now. He says that if we go, we should give wide berth to the red buoys on our port side because of the shoals. (We keep the red buoys on our left, i.e. port side, when heading east toward the ocean: you use the "Red-Right-Return" rule.)

Paul & I discuss the situation and decide to give it a try.  If worst comes to worst, we'll turn around and re-dock at Sylvan Beach. Paul is docked immediately down stream of Weal Sea and suggests we depart first and "play in the current", as he likes to say, until he gets undocked... its Cool Change's turn to play "pathfinder" today and spot the submerged dead-heads and weed patches. 0840 - Pat & I head out into the canal (its about 50 yds across at this point).  The current is heavy but not that bad and Weal Sea seems to handle it easily (she has a 30 hp Universal M-35 engine). Rather than just hold our place in mid-stream ("playing in the current") waiting for Cool Change, I decide to proceed up stream  to get past the point where Fisher Creek enters the canal. I keep to the starboard near the shore giving wide berth to the red buoys per the dredger's suggestion. Weal Sea does great. However, when we get to the junction with Fisher Creek, which enters the canal at about 45 degrees from the NE on our port side (north side of channel), the current REALLY picks up and there is a LARGE whirlpool on our starboard side containing trapped tree branches and other debris.... looks scary. Now would be a very inappropriate time for the fuel line to plug, or the engine stall or overheat! (Isn't it funny what goes through your mind at moments like this?) We note that Cool Change is playing it smart and is hanging back ~ 75 yds off our stern "watching, studying & learning" how to approach and get past the junction.... Darn It,,, I should have let Cool Change lead today as originally planned!.. Oh well. 

Since I have been hugging the starboard shore keeping well away from red buoys, I'm relatively close to the whirlpool. I point Weal Sea's nose directly up stream at the point where Fisher Creek enters the channel and gun the engine. She responses immediately and push up stream against the current then enters the main branch of the canal as we steer toward our starboard quarter.  During all this, a group of workers from the dredging and tug crews are standing on the north shore of the channel watching to see if the "yachty" could make it  up stream past the Fisher Creek-Erie Canal junction... I suspect they were probably "laying bets" that we couldn't make it! In addition, there was a fisherman anchored near the junction watching the events. We spoke briefly as I motored past and he congratulated us on our handling of the current. He also told us he had seen numerous trees as well as a picnic table float past earlier in the morning.

Once past the junction and into the canal channel per se, I put the engine in neutral and waited for Cool Change to make her run at the crossing.  She had learned from watching Weal Sea's effort and stays closer to the middle of the channel away from the starboard shore and whirlpool... Cool Change moves across the junction with relative ease.  Pauls pulls up close by and ask why we went "ahead"?... he said he was planning to lead the way and was just kidding about going out and "playing in the current"... NOW HE TELLS ME! Cool Change moved out front and led the way the rest of the day. The canal east of Sylvan Beach was quiet, smooth and scenic.  The clouds cleared and it became warm and bright. Really a relaxing day cruising the canal. Hey this is really FUN... can hardly believe its happening. Gosh are we lucky, and... we've got 12 months to go!

1750 - Arrive @ Little Falls, NY (43.02.03 N, 74.51.97 W).  This is not a free dock. They charge $20 a day for a 34 ft boat, plus $3 for electricity and $2 for water! We pass on the water... besides "Paul" left the hoses back in Bladwinsville! (Please note: this is a running joke... neither of us liked our old hoses anyway & planned on replacing them... no big loss). Very nice new facilities but not much here.  The town center is about a mile away. The dock master is a pleasant fellow who walked around in a white shirt and tie and collect the trash! Don't see that very often. He said he'd keep the showers open for us until 2200 hr if we wished. Telephone Arne & Bev (Scandia). They are docked in Canajoharie, NY down stream.  Its a short run and Bev said they would wait for us there. We look forward to getting together with them again. Pat & I have coffee-tea and sweets with Cool Change and hit the sack about 2230.
 

9-2-05
(F), Erie Canal, Little Falls, NY: 0700 - Up, breakfast. Clear, BP 30.15, temp 67 F. 0850 - Cleared dock and head east thru lock #17 just downstream at the outskirts of Little Falls. Lock #17 is remarkable. Not only does it  provide the largest single lift on the Erie Canal system, viz. 40.5 feet, but it is also one of the highest "vertical lift locks" in the world: it has a single rather than a double door at its east end which "lifts" vertically rather than swings horizontally to open. Very impressive! Individuals using the lock often wear rain gear so as to avoid getting soaked as their boat passes out of the lock under the raised door which drips streams of water. Our destination today is Canajoharie, NY about 18 miles east.

(Side Note: We have been on the Mohawk River section of the canal since we left Oneida Lake.  During the 3rd renovation of the canal in the early 1900s the canal was widen deepen to handle larger barges.  To shorten travel time, it was also re-routed to straighten it out & to reduce the number of locks. This was accomplished in part by taking advantage of the Mohawk River in the Mohawk Valley. Thus, the river is dredged and its central channel buoyed all the way from Oneida Lake to Waterford, NY on the Hudson River.)

Its Weal Sea's turn to lead today. Pleasant slow cruise. Very few boats on the canal.
(Note: We had previously noted a reduction in the number of power boats in marinas on the Great Lakes in July. Paul (Cool Change) said he noted the same thing in North Channel of Canada when he was there in June and early July. The major reason for the lack of traffic is, according to the local dock / harbormasters & marina operators, the cost of fuel. The current price for gasoline at gas stations here is $3.55 - $3.69 / gal. Its more at marinas. We spoke to one power boater on a 2-week vacation on Lake Michigan in July who was "staying put" in a marina for a few days because of gasoline prices. He said he had been out a little over a week and had already spent $2000 on gasoline.)

1300 - Arrive at Canajoharie, NY (42.54.56 N, 74.34.22 W).  Pass under the bridge which joins Canajoharie & Palantine Bridge and turn around to dock with our bow facing upstream (we normally dock this way due to current) on the south Canajoharie-side of the canal. (Canajoharie is a Indian word meaning "pot that washes itself".)  This village has a "small" free dock which includes electricity & water.  Scandia is already here but Arne & Bev must be uptown shopping since they don't appear on the dock when we arrive. There is one other rather old 23 ft sailboat tied to one end of the dock with a "plastic" dinghy attached to its stern & a blue plastic tarp draped over its  unstepped mast to shelter the cockpit from the sun.  No one is aboard but there is a frayed electric cord leading from a dock post outlet to the cabin and a worn collapsible lawn chair tied to the post. We tied up port side to the dock in front of the old boat & behind Scandia. There is only room for 4-5 boats on this dock depending on their size. However, there is also a small cove with dockage for shallow-drafted vessels about 50 yds away. The cove dockage is used mainly by power boats. The distance between ourselves and the old 23-footer behind us and Scandia on front of us is about 4-5 feet in each case; a comfortable distance.  We connected up the electric so we can run the A/C. A few minutes later Arne & Bev arrive surprised to see us so soon. They didn't expect us until late afternoon or would have been at the dock to greet & help us tie up. Ladies went to the store for groceries. I wander the waterfront park and check out the town. The fellow who owned the old 23 footer returned. He's a friendly laid-back hippie-like fellow about 30. He migrated from California several years ago and does odd jobs. Picked up the boat a few months ago "for a song" (and it looks like it) and is trying to outfit it to take it "south". Not sure when he'll be ready.  Trying to earn enough money painting houses so he can buy gasoline to get thru the canal.  Once past Waterford (last town at the eastern end of the canal), he'll be able to sail.  1700 - a large 40 foot triple-decker power boat pulls up next to our dock and ask if all 4 of the sailboats on the dock could "squeeze" up closer together so they could dock! We explain this would place us to close for comfort & safety & suggest they use the free dockage in the cove around the corner 50 yds away. They decline saying there is no electric hook-ups on the cove-docks & they want to run their A/C and other equipment. They move on upstream to the next lock.
(Note: the locks are open daily from 0700 to 2200 hr.) 1900 - group gathers at the waterfront's park shelter for coffee-tea and freshly baked goodies courtesy of Bev. Hit the sac about 2030 hr. 

9-3-05
(Sat), Erie Canal, Canajoharie, NY: 0800 - up and breakfast. Clear and sunny, BP 30.07, temp 70 F. 0920 - Depart for Lock 11 @ Amsterdam, NY ~ 22 miles east. Scandia leads the way. Pass thru lock 13 & Fonda, NY (actor Henry Fonda's home town), then lock 12. 1430 hr - Arrv lock #11 @ Amsterdam, NY (42.56.89 N, 74.12.73 W) & tie up on the north wall free dock just above the lock. There is free electricity (15 Amp only) & the lockmaster will allow boaters to use his private shower in the office building if they ask.  There is a small park right next to the wall with picnic tables & grills. Only one problem with this dockage... its immediately adjacent to the Amtrak and freight train tracks ~ 150 yards from the north canal wall.. & is it busy!; horns blowing all night long. The group takes a walk thru the town, which is also the birth place of the actor Kirk Douglas, and returns to the boats.  The Emita II is docked behind us on the wall on our return. She is one of several a commercial tourist boats which cruise the canal.  Tourists (mainly older couples) stay on the boat during the day then are taken by bus to a hotel for the night. 1800 - Group gathers at a picnic table in the park for coffee-tea & sweets.  The lockmaster passes by & the group invites him over for coffee & sweets.  He's delighted & spends nearly an hr with us. 2200 hr - hit the sack.

9-4-05
(Sun), Erie Canal, Amsterdam, NY: Up 0730, clear, temp 65 F, BP 30.47. Depart 0900 with Scandia leading. Could try for Waterford at the end of the canal.  However, we would have to do the 5-step lock series at the end of a long day when we would all be tired. Thus, the group decides to stop at lock 8 & leave early the next day for Waterford. Its an easy cruise to lock 8 (42.49.85 N, 73.59.57 W). 1250 - Arrv and tie up on the free wall (free electric) just west of the lock ~250 yds. Another 37 ft sailboat named "Lollygag" arrives and ties up behind us. A Canadian  couple (mid 30s) from Toronto own the boat. They are also on their way to the Bahamas. Dinner about 1830. Hit the sack about 2200 hr.

9-5-05
(M), Erie Canal, Lock 8: Up 0645, breakfast,  Temp 64 F, BP 31.24, Mist flowing slowly over the  canal. Wait for mist to clear & depart for Waterford ~ 0845 hr. S/V Lollygag has already started for the lock (#8) entrance and we are right behind.  Another beautiful day as we continue to follow Lollygag moving slowly along the twisting Mohawk River / Erie Canal meandering thru the country side. Its amazingly quiet except for the occasional freight train or ,less commonly, Amtrak passenger train which blow their horn as they rush along the north shore of the canal on our port side.  We lock-down thru #7 then head for our final series, the "step locks" (#6, 5, 4 ,3 & 2) immediately above Waterford.  Almost exactly at 12 Noon we arrive at Lock #6. Lollygag had radioed ahead on VHF channel 13 as we rounded the bend in the canal above the lock. However, the lockmaster was expecting us & the gate was open with the Green Light on; the lockmaster at lock #7 had telephoned ahead telling them to expect us.

(Note: this is the usual procedure on the canal. In deed, the lockmasters will usually asked you if you are going thru the next lock when he/she checks & records your boat's name and your boat's canal passage sticker number as you enter the lock. They record this information as well as the time you enter the lock in their log book.)

Lollygag entered 1st taking the south wall on their starboard side and moving up to within 20 ft of the gate. We followed suit taking the north wall directly across from them. Scandia entered & takes the spot on the south wall behind Lollygag while Cool Change, who was following Scandia, takes the spot on the north wall immediately behind us. Thus, the boats alternated sides as we entered the lock. This was the same sequence we would follow while locking-down thru the series. It was nothing we discussed ahead of time,,,, it was just intuitive like geese flying in a "V" formation.  Pat was handling the ropes on the lock walls quite well but you could tell her back was bothering her. I could see the pain in her face & she sat on the coach roof whenever possible when moving between locks. The most stressful part of locking- down or -up was grabbing the ropes hanging down from the wall as you enter the lock. Despite the fact that I enter a lock VERY SLOWLY & try to bring the boat to a complete stop before grabbing the wall rope with a boat hook, the boat almost always wants to continue forward (13,000 plus pounds of inertial force when moving) slowly because of currents in the lock. In one instance, in a previous lock I was almost pulled overboard trying to stop the boat by hanging on to one of the ropes.  Pat also nearly lost a boat hook which became jammed on a guard rail on the wall as we were entering a lock... can be tricky and stressful.... similar to docking the first time in an unfamiliar port. 

Each lock in the step series was separated from the next by a short stretch of straight canal which  varied in length from 50 to 200 yards. In one instance while going between locks 4 and 3, we met 3 "locking-up" trawlers and a houseboat waiting for us to exit the lock #4 when the lower gate opened. The locking-down went smoothly. Each lock had dropped us between 33 and 35 feet. We really were anticipating the last lock. "Set the scene": Image floating in a somewhat darkened cold  box about 60 feet long with 40-foot tall brown-black, wet and slim-covered walls on each side, a water-filled floor, huge dark forbidding steel doors at each end, and an open sky above which seems to extend forever.  Suddenly, when the lower gate door of Lock #2 opened, there before us, immediately on our port side about 100 yds downstream, was the small Village of Waterford's dock with the Hudson River about 300 yds beyond.... It reminded me of that scene from the movie "The Wizard Oz" when Dorothy (Judy Garland) opens the door of Aunty Em's farm house (which has just been dropped from the sky by the tornado) and see then Munchkin Village in bright, vivid Technicolor! "I don't think we're not in Indiana (Kansas)  anymore, Pat (Toto)". Gosh...Wow!...and you simile and feel good inside.

We did it. It is amazing and hard to believe Pat and I, with the help of our good friends, Paul, Mary, Arne and Bev, had just completed 360 plus miles on the Erie Canal from Tonawanda, NY on the Niagara River to Waterford, NY on the Hudson River! Pat smiled and.... I knew she was relieved too.  However, we did have one more lock to traverse on the Hudson, Lock #1, the Federal Lock", before we got to NYC. But, I didn't bring it up, not wanting to spoil the moment for her (time ~1345 hr). We cruised down the 100 yds or so to the Waterford dock, turned around in midstream to bringing Weal Sea's bow facing upstream toward the lock we had just exited, then nudged her forward slowly bringing her starboard side up to the dock behind Lollygag. Paul & Arne are already docked and are there to grab our lines (~1400 hr). Although this is a "free" dock with free electricity, water, showers and toilets, the lady dock master stops by and reminds us to check-in. We all get off our boats and chat, congratulating each other then visit the welcome center. Later in the day, we wander the village locating a laundry, (and ice cream shop, of course), then walk across the bridge over the Hudson River 150 yds to Troy, NY to a  large supermarket. We gather for Coffee-tea and sweets on Cool Change about 1930 hr. Return to Weal Sea's A/C-cooled cabin & hit the sack about 2130.... Its been a great day but we are exhausted..... I really slept sound.

9-6-05
(Tu), Junction Erie Canal & Hudson River, Waterford, NY (42.47.224 N, 73.40.761 W):
0800 - slept in, breakfast. Clear, sunny, Temp 70 F. Changed oil on Weal Sea and general house keeping. Pat is feeling very weak, wants to sleep all the time & has no interest in eating. She still has some back pain but not as severe as before; Dr Hur said it would take time to heal. We are concerned but suspect the muscle relaxant she is taking is causing the weakness & drowsiness. Decided to telephone Dr. Hur, the internist she saw in Newark, NY. 1130 - telephoned Dr. Hur's office & explained situation to the receptionist. She immediately put Pat thru to Dr. Hur. Although he could not be positive, he confirmed that the muscle relaxants could be the cause of her clinical signs and recommended she stop taking the relaxants but finish the pain medication. He would prescribed additional pain medication if necessary. Pat went to bed and slept most of the day. 1700 - Pat up. Not real hungry but said she wants tea & toast.

1930 - Arne, Bev, Pau & Mary show up at Weal Sea carrying sweets, coffee & tea.  They knew Pat was "down" & wanted to cheer her up... which they DID! Group discussed tomorrow's agenda.. will depart for Riverview Marine in Catskill, NY @ 0830 since we must now take the "tide" into consideration when planning our daily departures and arrivals. We want to have the tide with us going out to sea (downriver) in order to make the best time. We've never had to take tides into account on the Great Lakes so this is a new experience for us. Riverview Marina is on the Hudson River @ its junction with the Catskill River, about 40 mi south of Waterford.  Our masts are scheduled to be delivered there by truck from Buffalo Friday morning (9-8-05) and we will need part of a day to prepare the boats. 2100 - hit the sack.

9-7-05
(W), Hudson River, Waterford, NY: Up @ 0645. Temp 66, BP 30.00, Clear but heavy mist on the river. Pat is feeling better.  0830 - Mist has cleared & we depart. We enter the Hudson River 1st but we wait up since its Cool Change's turn to lead. After entering the Hudson & looking back at the mouth of the channel where the Erie Canal enters the river you see a huge Green & White "road sign" directing boat traffic on the Hudson to turn port (left) to enter the Erie Canal or continue north up the Hudson River / Champlain Canal to Lake Champlain.  ~1000 - Passed thru the "Federal Lock #1" (42.44.86 N, 73.41.18 W) about 3 miles south of Waterford, NY; Much larger than those on the Erie Canal.  This is the last lock we'll have to deal with until one on the ICW (Intercostal Waterway). The Hudson is a busy river but we enjoyed the cruise.

Scandia's engine has been running a little hot so I'm bringing up the rear to be available to provide assistance if required.  Arne said the water intake is clear & suspects the cooling water-intake pump's rubber impeller may be the problem. (NOTE: The blades on the impeller will sometimes break-off or become sufficiently worn so as to decrease the flow of water thru the heat exchanger.  All cruisers carry at least one extra impeller.  Many change the impeller at the beginning of the season and keep the old one as a back-up; we do this). 1530 hr - Arrive the the mouth of the Catskill River ('skill' is Dutch for 'creek') where it junctions with the Hudson River. Arne takes the lead since he's been here before. The marina is also expecting us; Arne had previously  made arrangements with them to step our mast when we were in Buffalo.  Riverview Marine (42.12.66 N, 73.51.43 W) is immediately around the corner on the north shore as you enter the Catskill River. We have radioed ahead and they have someone on the dock directing us into our slips near the fuel dock & crane they will use to step masts tomorrow. This is a pleasant marine about 1-2  mile from the town of Catskill.  It can handle much of the work you might need done on your boat in the way of repairs. The owners (husband & wife) are very friendly and often stopped by to chat while we were here. We spend the rest of the afternoon getting the boats ready for tomorrows mast stepping. They are to arrive in the morning -- We'll be sailboats AGAIN! Hit the sack about 2030.

9-8-05
(Th), Riverview Marina, Catskill River, Catskill, NY (42.12.66 N, 73.51.43 W): 0630 - Up, breakfast cheese & bagel. BP 30.05, Clear, Temp 70 F. 0715 - Had 2nd coffee with Arne & Paul at picnic table on shore next to our docked boats. Tide is coming in; high vs. low tide here ranges from 5 to 6 feet. However, our boats are on floating docks so it doesn't create much of a problem getting on & off. 0730 - fellow walks up to us & asks if we are the individuals waiting for masts to be delivered? We confirm we are but tell him that the fork-lift operator will not be there unload our mast until 0900. He joins us & has a coffee. 0900 - Fork-lift operator arrives and we unload the masts onto blocks of wood adjacent to the dock so we can clean, wax and re-rig them in preparation for stepping. After the driver left, we discovered my mast has 2 gouges on one side. Not sure how they got there but telephoned transport company in Canada and reported it.  Stepping the masts went smoothly. Sequence: Scandia, Weal Sea then Cool Change. Ladies took a taxi into town to shop for groceries. The guys spent rest of day reattaching the stays, wedging the masts, and adjusting their tension.  Worked til about 1830 hr then had supper. The boats are beginning to look like sailboats again. We've decided to stay at least another day; need to put on sails, cleanup the boats, etc.  Hit the sack about 2200.

9-9-05
(F), Riverview Marine, Catskill River, Catskill NY: 0600 - Up & breakfast. Clear, BP 30.00, temp 75 F -- predicting 80-90 F! Put up sails, work on various items that had been neglected on the canal. Pat is feeling much better since she's been off the muscle relaxants. She still has some back pain and is continuing on the pain medication.  However she has found that Aleve seems to work as well (Dr. Hur had also recommended that she take Aleve as well as the prescription medication). 1830 - Group has coffee-tea and sweets at the picnic table next to the dock. The group has decide to stay here an additional day.  We all have small things to work on. 2200 - Hit the sac.

9-10-05
(Sat), Riverview Marina, Catskill River, Catskill, NY; 0730 - up and breakfast. Clear day. Temp already 75 F... going to be hot.  We are using the boats A/C all the time. Although her back still pains her some, Pat is really feeling much better and is cleaning everything in sight! She's even been giving Arne a tough time (they are always joking around good-naturedly).  We'll soon have to restrain her! The ladies visited a Farmers Market down the road from the marine and picked up some fresh vegetables.  Our group has decided to head downstream tomorrow with the tide @ 0730. Fueled, pumped out our holding tanks and paid our bills. 1900 hr - group has a carry-in style dinner @ the picnic table with 3 different kinds of wine... what a feed!  2200 - back to the boats. Great day and looking forward to tomorrow's journey down the Hudson.

9-11-05
(Sun), Riverview Marina, Catskill River, Catskill, NY (41.30.31 N, 74.00.16 W): 0600 - Up & breakfast. Clear, BP 30.00, Temp 70 F. 0730 - Tide is near slack (slack = period between hi & lo tide). Depart dock. Cool Change leads again while Weal Sea follows Scandia who his having some problems with slightly hot engine. River traffic is moderate with a number of barges being pushed up-river  by tugs. We've had a lot of discussion on VHF channel 68 (which we are now using) concerning where we want to end up today. There is an anchorage behind an island about 40 mi downstream but its a narrow spot and Arne is concerned about entry because of his boat's draft. Skipper Bob's book mentions a restaurant in Newburgh, NY which has on-the-river docks which can be used. Telephoned ahead and they said we could dock overnight but that they were not responsible for any problems we might have. We decide to go for it.

Today is "9-11" and flags along the way are at half-mast. We also see a riverside ceremony with fire trucks and fire boats honoring the firemen who lost their lives that day. 1415 hr - Arrive Restaurant dock at Newburgh, NY (41.30.31 N, 74.00.16 W) on the west shore of the Hudson. Weal Sea & Scandia take outside spots parallel-to & exposed-to the  river boat traffic, waves & surges... we bounce a lot. Cool Change gets a spot at the end of the dock with her bow facing out toward the river and less bounce. (Lots of seagull dung all over dock... have to constantly watch where you walk. There are several restaurants here. We walked the docks checking them out. Nothing took our fancy & we decided to eat on the boat. 1930 hr - Group met on Scandia for coffee-tea & sweets to chat about next day's schedule. Will depart at 0730 hr and try to make New York City or Sandy Hook, NJ. 2100 - Return to boat and the sack.

9-12-05
(M): Hudson River, Newburgh, NY (40.24.96 N, 74.01.22 W): Up 0600 - breakfast. Slight bounce last night but restaurant let music play all night long. 0730 -Departed for New York City. Mist rising over the river with shafts of sunlight streaming between the low rolling tree-covered mountains which line the twisting Hudson. This is a spectacular part of the Hudson sometimes referred to as the Highland Section.  Nearby is Storm King Mountain which rises 1355 feet above the western shore. The river from here to NYC twists & turns thru the mountains and a new scene gradually appears as you slowly round each river bend. We have passed several small lighthouses on islands as we've come down the Hudson. However, ahead of us, about 2 miles downstream, we cruise by the ruins of a burned-out replica of a Scottish style medieval castle on Pollepel (AKA: Bannerman's) Island on our port beam (the east side of the rive). The shadows it casts gives it a eerie appearance in the morning mist. The castle was built by a munitions dealer named Bannerman between 1900 & 1918. NY state acquired the property in 1967 & provided tours until the castle burned in 1969. You can still land on the island and visit the ruins at "your own risk".

We continue on another few miles downstream and approach a narrow section of the river termed "World's End". Its the deepest section of the entire river & the Americans tried to prevent the British from attacking and burning Kingston by stretching a chain across the river here similar to what they had done downstream earlier... no luck. This section of the river is immediately north of West Point Military Academy on the river's west bank (41.24.02 N, 73.57.53 W). Opened in 1802, its an awesome sight as you pass beneath it's mammoth stone walls which tower over you as you look upward in the bright morning sun.

Continuing on we cruise under the Bear Mountain Suspension Bridge built in 1924. This bridge still carries auto traffic but is also the Hudson crossing point for individuals hiking the Appalachian Mountain Trail which extends from Georgia to Maine. (Dan did a Kentucky section of this trail when our boys were in Boy Scouts). On the hillside off our port side, we pass Ossining, home the famous "Sing Sing" prison which is "Up the River" from New York City. In fact, we can now see some of NYC's buildings in the distance. We now pass Tarrytown (AKA: Sleepy Hollow made famous by Washington Irving's "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow") on our starboard immediately north of the Tappanzee Bridge stretching across the Hudson. Gradually the mountains began to turn into low hill and laying before us in the haze (smog?) is the skyline of the "Big Apple", New York City. 

1215 hr - We go under the George Washington Bridge and the Hudson suddenly widens. Weal Sea is now leading since our chart plotter covers all of this region. We popped our headsail (jib) & were able to sail or motor-sail part of this region. However, river traffic increased significantly & we decided to motor only!

As we move down the river, New York City is on our port side (east side) and New Jersy is on our starboard side (west side). We pass numerous NYC apartment buildings & St Patrick's Cathedral. In the distance among the sky scrappers, we can see the Empire State Building. Nearing the south end of Manhattan Island we approach the area where the "Twin Towers" once stood. Suddenly you have feelings of sadness but also anger & defiance.  However, these feeling soon dissipates as you approach "The Battery" at the tip of Manhattan & look off the starboard bow past Governor's Island into NYC's harbor. There, in the distance, is the enlarging shadow image of a "Lady" standing straight and tall holding up in her right hand for all to see a guiding torch with gold-leafed flames glistening in the afternoon's sunlight... "Lady Liberty". Off the port bow and up the East River between Governor's Island and The Battery you can see the Brooklyn Bridge connecting Brooklyn & NYC. Adjacent to The Statue of Liberty separated by a narrow piece of water is Ellis Island with its 4 towers with onion-shaped roofs.

The Bahamas group has been debating on VHF between (1) taking a mooring ball at NYC's 79th Street Basin, (2) anchoring by The Statue of Liberty & Ellis Island, and (3) continuing on to Sandy Hook, NJ to anchor in the harbor at the base of Atlantic Highlands. Scandia is still running hot & Arne wants to change the impeller. He plans to stay at Sandy Hook a full day regardless of where we go tonight.  There is a great deal of surge and difficult currents at the 79th St. Basin. Although there is an designated anchorage between The Statue of Liberty & Ellis Island, there is also a lot of surge and waves from river traffic.  Paul checked Skipper Bob's book and pointed out that there is a protected anchorage immediately behind The Statue of Liberty (40.24.96 N, 74.01.39 W) adjacent to Liberty Park, NJ  (40.01.68 N, 74.03.22 W). 

The entrance is narrow but well-buoyed.  Weal Sea agrees to go in and check it out. We proceed slowly with Pat watching the buoys, some only 20 yds apart. It is low tide but the depth looks fine; no less than 11 ft with 17-20 ft in the very protected anchorage pool. We radio back to Scandia & Cool Change circling off the south side of the "Lady", and they come-in. 1530 - We anchor in 17 ft of water letting out 80 ft of rode (50 ft of Hi-Tensile G4 chain and 30 ft of nylon anchor line.) The pool is  very quiet with no other boats & the water is flat with no wind. There are a few families fishing on the shore. There are numerous people strolling the park which is "in" New Jersey but stands directly behind Liberty Island. Immediately east of us above the trees of Liberty Park we can see the back of Lady Liberty holding up her torch to guide the way to the immigrants of the past. These included Dan's great grandfather from Cork Ireland and his other grandfather from the Kiev Ukraine. 1800 - We have dinner on the boat then row the dinghy ashore (about 50 yds) to visit Liberty Park. Its dark when we return and we hit the sack @ about 2100 hr.  Tomorrow we are heading across the bay to Sandy Hook, NJ.

9-13-05
(T), Liberty Park anchorage, NJ (behind Statue of Liberty) (40.01.68 N, 74.03.22 W): 0600 - Up, Dan has coffee & cheese for breakfast. Clear with bright sun,  BP 30.65, temp 80 F (/w 90 F predicted in afternoon), no wind, water of the lagoon / pool anchorage is like a mirror with a slight mist hovering just above the surface. It soon dissipates as the sun rises higher over the Hudson in the east. Off to the south on the Jersey shore in the distance we can see a huge complex resembling a fortified medieval city with high walls topped by palisades and round towers with conical roofs. It resembles the scenes ones sees on medieval tapestries. We noted it yesterday when we arrived. One of the local fisherman told us it was new self-contained living condo community.

0800 - Weal pulls anchor first and leads the way thru the narrow buoyed channel past Lady Liberty.  We circle off the main Hudson channel as Scandia & Cool Change slowly make their way out into the river.  It's VERY busy in the early morning with tugs pushing freighters and barges up and down the river, and orange "Staten Island Ferries" and motorized blue & white "SeaStreak" passenger catamarans from Sandy Hook, and other ports in New Jersey, transporting well-dress commuters to their jobs on Wall Street at the tip of Manhattan (Pier 11 ferry dock) or up the East River under the Brooklyn Bridge to the 34th Street ferry landing. We move out into the main channel periodically having to "head into the wakes" of passing ferries & tugs to avoid excessive rolling. Before us lies the Verrazano Narrows Suspension Bridge which separates the NY Harbor from Raritan Bay.  Ten miles across the bay is Sandy Hook, NJ, our destination. (Sandy hook is a peninsula which points northward from NJ toward Manhattan.) The waters of the bay run 20-30 deep in most areas but it has deeper buoyed channels used by the ferries going between NYC and the towns of Highland & Atlantic Highland at the base of the Sandy Hook peninsula. The winds are down & on the nose so we motor across the entire bay.

1030 - Arrive @ Atlantic Highland's harbor (40.25.00 N, 74.01.38 W) and head for fuel dock for diesel and a pump-out with Cool Change. We then drop anchor behind the breakwater at the east end of the mooring field (free) putting out about 80 feet of rode in 13 ft of water (hi tide). You can rent a mooring ball from the Yacht Club for $40 / day. This  includes water taxi service between 1000-2200 hr, and use of their showers (only fair). There are several other transient sailboats and a trawler already here. Arne (Scandia) came over in his dinghy to barrow our generator.  His electrical system is not charging his batteries properly and his refrigerator is not cooling. He carries a spare alternator & will be installing it tomorrow. Bev's left knee has also been bothering her for several days (stained ligament?) and she has had to take it easy. We dinghy into the dock and scout-out the town for grocery stores, laundries, hair dressers, hardware's, Napa's, etc. which we'll take advantage of over the next few days. 1730 - Return to the boat had dinner & went to bed about 2300.

9-14-05
(W), Atlantic Highlands harbor, Sandy Hook, NJ (40.25.00 N, 74.01.38 W): 0530 - up & breakfast. Clear, BP 30.00, temp 67 F. Checked weather... Hurricane Ophelia is threatening east coast. This anchorage is a stopping off point for transient southbound sailboats from the US and Canada in the fall (AKA: "snowbirds"). Normally they start arriving @ about 1530 hr and usually pull anchor are gone between 0500 and 0800 hr, often traveling with 1, 2 or more sailboats they've met along the way. However, because of hurricane Ophelia off the Carolina's" , most are staying put. Like ourselves, many are planning on stopping at the Annapolis Boat Show.

1000 - I take Mary & Pat into town via dinghy. They have hairdresser appointments and decide to do some grocery shopping as well. Return to Scandia to try to help Arne with his electrical problem. He wants to check his batteries and I bring my VOM and hygrometer. Batteries seem fine. Arne had installed  his new alternator but had a local fellow also look at the electrical system. He has taken the old alternator to have it checked. In the meantime, Arne discovered a blown fuse and suspected this was the problem. It's not. But we found that the fan on the refrigerator was bad. Thus, the refrigerator is constantly running draining the batteries. Arne contacted the local electrical fellow who he  has been working with. He will pick up a new fan from Radio Shack. He's had this happen in the past and he found that the small computer fans from Radio Shack work fine on the "AB Cold Machine"-- much cheaper too! 1600 - Dinghy to shore to pick up Mary and Pat.  They are both tired & hot  and we stop off  at a local restaurant for a cold drink before returning to our boats. Dinner on our respective boats. 2130 - Hit the sack.

9-15-05
(Th), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands harbor, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0600 - Up - Coffee only - have been switching back & forth between instant and the real thing. Arne & Paul use only the perked brew and are convincing me that's the way to go.. problem is having to perk an entire pot & Pat's a tea only Lass.

Overcast, drizzling (including all night), BP 30.65, Temp 75 F. We are staying put. Weather to south looks bad. Small craft warning with sea in some places reported to be up to 26 ft! None of the other transients are leaving either. Rains increased and became heavy during the day.  Now's a good time soap up, take a fresh water shower and to wash down the boat. The Yacht Club wants $13 for one use of their shower. (One of the local business people told us this is really not a friendly transient boaters marina.. They appear to be more interested in people using their  Fishing Charter boats.)  Mary and Paul are planning to rent a car for next Monday to travel to south for their son Eric's graduation from "Homeland Security" training at a US facility near Brunswick, Georgia. They would return next Thursday or Friday.

1230 - Bad News: Paul & Mary informed me today that they have really become home sick and are now considering turning back! I was really caught off guard. Hope its just the depressing weather and they will change their mind. Pat & I had only agreed to do this trip if Paul & Mary were going.  We said we would stick with them through thick & thin. They told us they did not expect us to turn back but could continue on. I talked it over with Pat & she said she wants to go on.  I dinghyed over to Arne & Bev and told them what Mary & Paul were thinking about... we were really surprised as well. I told them Pat & I really wanted to continue on but did not want either of them to think they had to "baby sit" us. They said that they would be happy to have us continue to travel with them as long as we wished. However, they pointed out that they would be leaving next Sunday, weather permitting, for the Chesapeake Bay; They are scheduled to pick up their daughter who will sail with them for a few days.  We already knew about their schedule. However, because we had committed to sail with Paul & Mary, we had planned to stay in Sandy Hook to wait for them to return from Georgia. Now that they were planning to turn back, Pat and I will go on with Arne & Bev.  However, despite our decision to continue on, we really felt depressed for the rest of the day, and the rain and reported hurricane to our south did nothing to raise our spirits. Stayed on the boat, cleaned up and read another chapter in Dan Brown's Book "Angels & Demons" which our daughter Susan loaned to me.  I plan on reading his other book, "The Da Vinci Code", later.  2000 - hit the sack.

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9-16-05
(F), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands harbor, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0600 - Up - Coffee only. BP 30.50, Temp 70 F, Overcast. Rained all night.  The people here say they need the rain badly... no rain for previous month... Oh well. Rained on and off all day. 0930 - Paul and Arne come over to Weal Sea in Arne's dinghy. Great News... Paul tells me he and Mary have decided to  continue on!  That means, Pat & I will be staying in Sandy Hook after all to wait for Paul & Mary to return from Georgia.  We will then sail south together and meet Arne & Bev, who are still planning to leave Sunday (9-18-05) for the Chesapeake to met their daughter and then on to Annapolis for the boat show. Pat and I both feel great.

1000 - I took Pat and Mary ashore for laundry and grocery shopping; Bev has been laid up with her sore knee for the last several days and is staying on their boat. There is an older Columbia anchored near us on a mooring ball. The boat is operated & maintained by George Morgan, a "ship's pastor" for the Sea Scouts which actually owns the "donated" boat. Paul spoke to George the previous evening and discovered that his wife Judyannah (she is originally from Trinidad) works at the local West Marine (WM) Store. He volunteered to drive us in to WM the next day to pick-up any boat supplies we might need. I spent rest of day working around the boat and preparing a list of items to purchase from the WM store. 1900 - late dinner. 2100 - hit the sack.

9-17-05
(Sat), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands harbor, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0800 - Up and breakfast. Clear, BP 30.40, Temp 75 F - going to be hot today. 1000 - dinghy into shore to meet George and Judyannah who are taking, Paul, Arne and me into WM. I purchased several items including a back-up macerator pump and a back-up water pump. Ours are working fine but if either goes out in the Bahamas, we would be hard pressed  getting replacements. Some people also carry a spare water pump for their engine (similar to what Paul replaced on Cool Change in Presque Isle, OH.) In addition, I also want paper charts of the Chesapeake & Delaware Bays as well as strip charts of the Intercostal Waterway.  I have C-Map chips of these regions for our chart plotter but you should always have paper chart back-ups.  Paul said he also wants the paper charts. Unfortunately they do not have the charts at WM.  There is, however, a Boats US store in another town about 10 miles away and Judyannah volunteers to drive us.  Arne wants to return to his boat. George has his car there & agrees to take him back. Surprisingly, Paul also decides to return without buying the charts. Judyannah takes me to Boats US where I purchase the needed charts as well as 3 Hella 12 V fans (2 for the salon and 1 for the v-berth), & an outboard motor lock & bridle for the dinghy. I also have a 10 ft dinghy cable made-up so as to be able to secure the dinghy when we go ashore for long periods.

1430 - Back at the harbor, getting ready to return to boat only to discovered I had scraped the dinghy against one of the pilings when getting gasoline earlier in the day. The tide was out exposing the barnacles which are like razor blades. Several shallow gashes were present on the port side and one was causing a very slow leak... more problems! Checked the repair kit on board and no glue! Judyannah had already left so I telephoned George & asked if he might pick up a tube of Zodiac PVC glue for me when he drops Judyannah off at WM for work tomorrow AM.  He says sure, pleased to do it. Return to boat.

Pat said Paul came by earlier to tell us he and Mary had changed their mind again & have decided not to continue on! He had dinghied into shore to try to find me and tell me personally. 1530 - Arne came by on his way to the fuel dock & I gave him the news about Paul & Mary. He was surprised & left for shore to find Paul.  1550 - I put more air in our dinghy & headed ashore to find Paul. Arne and Paul were sitting at the dinghy dock talking. Arne left when I arrived (found out later this was so Paul & I could talk in private). Paul explained his heart was really not in the trip... he had actually considered turning around when we were in Buffalo but continued on because of he felt a commitment to Pat & I. He was really feeling bad and felt he had let Pat & I down. I explained that Pat & I understood & that we both felt that if their heart wasn't in it, they should not continue on. Paul said they realized they could not possibly return all the way to Michigan this late in the season. Thus, they were thinking of returning up the Hudson & Erie Canal to Sodus Point, NY where Mary's brother lived.  They would leave Cool Change there for the winter and return next spring to possibly do the "The Thousand Islands" then return to the North Channel.

We returned to our respective boats. I told Pat about my talk with Paul & their plans.  Arne telephoned & invited us over for coffee-tea and sweets at 1730 to discuss plans for the sail south the next day. Since Paul & Mary were turning around, we would now be leaving with Scandia for the Chesapeake Bay the next day. 1730 hr - Pat & I dinghied over to Scandia. Paul & Mary were also invited but did not arrived until about 1815.  It was really a sad occasion & neither Paul or Mary said much initially.  Bev was her cheery self and tried to perk us all up. Pat was doing her best as well to keep spirits up. Arne said they planned to leave about 0630 hr tomorrow. Thus, Pat & I would have to get up around 0500 to get Weal Sea ready including bringing our outboard motor & leaking dinghy onboard.  Arne asked Paul about his plans.  When he discovered he was only planning to return to Sodus Point, NY where they would leave their boat for the winter, he suggested that they might consider continuing on at least to the Chesapeake Bay. They could leave Cool Change there for the winter & return in the Spring to spend time sailing the Chesapeake Bay before returning home. Mary & Paul thought about it & decided it was a good idea....

Ooops OUR plans are changed again. Since we had agreed to stick with Paul & Mary we still felt obligated to wait for them to return from Georgia to sail with them to the Chesapeake Bay. Although they encouraged us to continue on with Scandia, we said we would wait for them at Sandy Hook... we had started out together and we would continue on as long as possible. The mood of the evening immediately changed and everyone felt better.  At least we would be together for another couple of weeks. 2100 - Returned to our boats.  Pat and I sat up & talked. The weather forecast for tomorrow was good and we really would have liked to have pulled anchor for the Chesapeake tomorrow. However, we both agreed that we had made the correct decision. Paul & Mary are our friends & waiting for them to return was the right thing to do. They had stayed with us when they wanted to return home earlier in the trip & this was our opportunity to show our gratitude & return the favor.   2230 - Hit the sack.
 

9-18-05
(Sun), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0600 - Up & breakfast. Clear & sunny. BP 30.60, Temp 70 F. 0630 - Scandia was suppose to depart at 0630 but is still @ anchor. 0700 - Scandia pulls anchor. She will first head north about 2 mi inside the Sandy Hook Bay then east to round the point of Sandy Hook peninsula into the Atlantic and finally south toward Barnegat Bay, NJ. Barnegat Bay is about 42 mi south of Sandy Hook. Depending on conditions, they might consider continuing on to Atlantic City which is another 30 mi south. The next day they would only have to sail another 40 mi south to Cape May at the mouth of the Delaware Bay. 1030 - Pulled dinghy on foredeck to patch it. Don't have any acetone to prepare the surface. Mary (Cool Change) has some finger nail polish remover which contains acetone. Used it but it contains some other material as well.. hope it works. Will need to let it set up for 24 hr. Pittled around the boat the rest of the day.

1630 - Lots of boats "going south" have been arriving and dropping anchor at this end of harbor. A surprising large number are from Canada - 30% to 50%. 1700 - Having real problems using telephone on the boat here at anchor.. bad reception. However, did manage to telephoned some of family members. Spoke to Ryan, Sean & Matthew, 3 of our grand children. Ryan now has his own email address and sent me an email. I now have his return address & will be placing him on our list so he will receive his own copy of Weal Sea's Log. 1930 - Coffee-tea & sweets with Paul & Mary. Mary cleaned out many of the perishables from her refrig. & gave them to Pat. She put ice in their refrig. to hold the rest. We'll keep an eye on Cool Change while they are gone. 2100 - hit the sac.

9-19-05
(M), Atlantic Highlands anchorage, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0600 - Up & breakfast. BP 30.75, Temp 75 F, Clear & sunny. No wind... water is a nearly as smooth as a sheet of glass. 0630 - Many of transient boats are starting to pull up anchor and are heading out around the east end of the breakwater. From there they turn north about 5 mi to the end of the Sandy Hook peninsula where they turn east to follow the buoyed channel ~ 0.75 mile out into the Atlantic. They then turn almost directly south for Atlantic City or the Delaware or the Chesapeake Bays. ~ 1100 - Paul & Mary have their rental car delivered & depart for Georgia. 1200 - batteries down, ran generator. Having to use dinghy's gasoline tank since we still haven't been able to locate the type "gerry" cans we want for our trip. 1600 - Inflate dinghy & Pat & I get it in water using extra jib halyard to raise it off foredeck and lower it into the water. 1700 - dinghy into shore to shop for a few grocery items, dump garbage & to pick up drinking water & additional gasoline. Will do major grocery shopping tomorrow. 1830 - decide to eat out @ Harbor Side Restaurant & Grill. Very nice. Pat has steak. I have "wrap". So much food we take 1/2 back to the boat for next day. 2030 - return to boat... it's dark and we forgot our dinghy light. However, have flashlight in Emergency Kit we carry on dinghy and it does in a pinch. 2130 - hit the sack.

9-20-05
(Tue), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands harbor, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0600 - Up & breakfast. BP 30.07, Temp 70 F. Partly cloudy & windy. 0730 - Check dinghy. Nuts... !#)@*, the patch leaks! The nail polish removed I use as the source of my acetone apparently had other additives which did in fact interfered with the adhesion of the patch. Its a very slow leak and I can use the dinghy but its a nuisance. Will have to redo the job later. 1200 - Pat & I dinghy into town again to do major grocery shopping. I also need a haircut. On the way in, I remembered I forgot the new outboard motor lock I had just purchased from WM. Turned around & went back & picked it up. OH NO! The outboard motor lock fell overbaord as I was putting it on the dinghy! Nuts again.... leaky dingy & now lost the dinghy outboard motor lock... what else can happen! Continue on and arrive at dock to tie up. NO.. NOT AGAIN.. I CAN'T BELIEVE THIS! One of our dinghy oars is gone! It must have become fallen off its bracket while we were motoring in. That's 3 things that have happen to the dingy ("Bad Luck comes in 3's")! Nothing we can do about it now. I'll check with George tomorrow and see if I can purchase a replacement oar from WM later. Since Pat & I are going to be here for a few days on our own, we've decided to go into New York City tomorrow via the SeaStreak Ferry from Atlantic Highlands. We therefore stopped off at the ferry office to buy tickets & at the library to get maps & information on NYC. Round trip tickets after 0900 are $29 per person. Got haircut & groceries. Its been a tough day with the dinghy... decided to treat ourselves & ate lunch out at the Atlantic Dinner. 1830 - returned to Weal Sea. 2000 - will have long day in NYC tomorrow. Went to bed early.

9-21-05
(Tue), Anchorage, Atlantic Highland, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0730 - Up & Breakfast. BP 30.70, Temp 75 F. Clear sunny day. Going to be warm. 0830 - Add more air to our leaky dinghy & head for the ferry dock. Taking camera & backpack. ~0930 - Board SeaStreak ferry m/v "Highlands". [NOTE: SeaStreak, INC operates several ferries between Highlands & Atlantic Highlands (both on Sandy Hook) and NYC in the AM starting a 0600. Cost = $35 for a single round-trip on ferries between 0600 & 0900 (usually regular NYC commuters use these). We are taking the 1000 ferry - $29 round trip]
About 50 passengers board. These are motorized catamarans. Can get coffee, donuts, breakfast sandwiches, etc on board if you wish. Takes about 40 minutes to cross the bay to NYC. We'll be going under the Verranzono Narrow Bridge past both Lady Liberty & Ellis Island and getting off at Pier 11. This is @ the south-east tip of Manhattan (actually on East River). Arrive Pier 11, Slip B ("Wall Street Ferry") at the base of Wall Street. (Ferry will continue on up East River to 34th Street. We'll use that pick-up point for our return trip later today).

Good cell phone coverage here & Pat telephones children. Walked up Wall Street toward Trinity Church at the top of the street. Past the NYC Stock Exchange and the Federal Hall on the opposite side of the street. This is where George Washington took his presidential oath of office on April 30, 1789. Pat talks to one of the ever-present mounted policeman ("New York's Finest) standing by his horse to answers questions of passer-bys.!


Continue on up to Trinity Church. There is a large patinated bronze "casting" measuring 12.5 x 20 ft wide of a set of roots from a tree in the garden next to the church. A gift of the artist Steve Tobin. The casting is the roots from a sycamore tree in St. Paul's Chapel @ Broadway & Fulton Streets that was stricken by debris during the 9-11 terrorist attack in 2001. The original roots are preserved in St. Paul's Chapel Courtyard. We turn left (south) on to Broadway. Hundreds of people bustle up & down the street just as you see in pictures & films. Lots of tourist, many from Asia, stop by & posed for a picture in front of the famous Wall Street "Bull" casting (its actually on Broadway not Wall Street). I can't resist; Pat & I have a fellow tourist shoot a picture of us in front of the Bull as well. Continue south past the "Bowling Green" square & "Custom House" to Battery Park. Turn & return north up Broadway. Its about 1145 hr and Pat & I will eat at the Broadway Cafe which we passed earlier. Its food court where you can have various types of food prepared to your individual liking. Very reasonable and good!

Head north again to Liberty Street & turn left at Liberty Plaza one block to the World Trade Center site. Its currently a huge "Hole In The Ground" surrounded by a fence. Lots of earth-moving & other equipment working in the area. Really a sad sight which makes you angry. Hundreds of people are wandering around taking photos & reading the posted signs with information about the attack. We head to the NE corner of the plaza & walk downstairs to the World Trade Center subway terminal. Purchase 2 "all-day" surface-underground tickets for $7 each. Take subway north to 41st St. to visit Greenwich Village & Washington Square. Pat & I were here in the early "1960s" during the "Hippie" years. It hasn't changed that much. People still sitting around the fountain, some playing guitars sing folk songs and others just gazing off into the distance (still on "pot"?). There is even a group filming a commercial movie off to one side of the square.

Visit the Chapel @ the Catholic Center at New York University adjacent to the square. Back on the subway we head up to 34th & 6th Ave passing the Comedy Village and by a several groups of people playing a game of "pick-up" basketball in one of the ever present fenced-in public B-ball courts along the street. I'm still trying to find some sandals... that's all I have been wearing on the trip & mine are wearing out! Of course this is a bad time of year to try to find summer clothing. Someone suggested we might find some on 8th Ave. Nothing on 5th Ave I can afford!. Head to 8th and found a shoe shop that still had some sandals and purchased a pair. Head south & enter the West 4th Street subway terminal & take the subway to the 34th St - Penn Station exit. Penn Central R.R. Station is very busy. They have numerous underground stores including a small K-Mart which we can't resist visiting. Exit the station, turn east up 34th & head for the Empire State Building. Purchase 2 "senior citizen" tickets for $13 each (save $1) & take the elevator to the observation deck. Seems like hundreds of tourists with cameras are here & 75+% don't speak English. It is a fantastic sight & you can see the all of NYC, the harbor including Lady Liberty & Ellis Island as well as much of NJ & even Sandy Hook in the distance. Took lots of photos. Tried to use cell phone on the observation deck but no towers!

Getting late and need to get going. Took elevator down & turned west on 34th and walked by Macy's Department store @ the junction of Broadway, Avenue of the Americas (6th Ave) & 34th. Walked into Macy's briefly but then continued east on 34th to 8th Ave subway station to catch subway to 50th street (50th & Broadway). Pat stops outside an Applebee's and telephone the kids (lots of towers here). Its dark and the multitude of colors created by the city's lights are cannot be described. Walk past the Time-Life Building, Radio City Music Hall, The NBC Studio (Pat sees Conan O'Brien walk out of the studio) and continue on to the Rockefeller Center. Its getting late and we need to catch the 2000 hr ferry back to Atlantic Highlands. Take to subway back to 34th St, then catch a 34th St "cross-town" bus (included on our ticket) to the East River ferry dock. Get there about 1930. Ferry arrives on time and we relax on the return trip... its been a "long" but enjoyable day. Arrive back @ ~2045. Dingy is still inflated and we head back to the boat in the dark. Did not need the flash light.. I did remember to bring the dinghy light! 2200 hr - hit the sac.

9-22-05
(Th), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands, NJ: 0730 - Up & breakfast. BP 30.50, Temp 70. Overcast and raining. Pat & I are getting tired of Atlantic Highlands! We can only takes so much of this place. 1300 hr. - rain stopped & dinghy into town to do some laundry. 1400 - Pat has her hair done. 1530 - Paul & Mary telephone. They are on their way back & should arrive tomorrow early afternoon. 1730 - return to boat. (Looking forward to heading SOUTH!) 2100 - hit the sac

9-23-05
(F), Atlantic Highlands anchorage, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0630 - Up & breakfast. BP 30.00, Temp 70 F, clear & sunny. Several transients arrived yesterday and are waiting for good weather to head south. Met 3 of them today: Bob & Sally (s/v Madison, a 50 ft ketch) from Houston, TX; Ben & Marle (m/v Disel Duck, a 40 ft aluminum trawler) from Toronto, CA; and Stan & Judy (s/v Rum Runner, 36 ft cutter-rigged dory) from Salem, MA. 1130 - Dinghy into town to visit library to check email (hotmail acct), visit local hardware to pick up some needed items, and pick up drinking water & gasoline for generator. (Getting BORED here... stuck here almost 2 wks!). 1330 - Paul & Mary return. Great to have them back safely. It was a long trip for them & they are both tired. Son's graduation went fine. Paul & Mary said they had told their children they were considering putting the boat up in the Chesapeake for the winter & heading home. Their children told them they need not worry about them but do what they thought best for themselves.

1500 - decide to pull anchor & go to fuel dock for diesel & fill boat's water tanks. Paul mentioned that the Municipal Marine here seems to be using the same water hose to both flush holding tanks & fill drinking boat water tanks! That's a BIG NO, NO. We go to fuel dock and take on diesel. Asked for the the hose to fill our water tanks. Sure enough the attendant, a young fellow about 18 or 20, gave me the hose they use to flush holding tanks. Not being sure he understood me, repeated myself & said I told him again that I wanted the hose to fill my water tanks not flush the holding tanks. He said they use the same hose! I explained that that was illegal and dangerous. He said, "Well, we never touch the edge of the holding tank with the hose." Sure...., I thought. I asked him if he tells people they service that they use the same hose for both purposes. He did not respond. Then he told me that they had been doing it this way for 20 years and that they were not required to give water to anyone. If we did not want water we could do without. Unfortunately, we had no water left. I took the hose and poured pure Clorox over the end then filled the first few feet with Clorox and held it that way for about 5 minutes. I then began to run water through it to flush it out. The older dock man came over and turned off the water. I explained I was flushing the hose and had not yet filled my tanks. He said, in an unpleasant tone, "We have a water shortage here and don't want to waste water". However, he did turn it back on and I filled the tanks.

We returned to our original spot in the harbor and re-anchored. Many more transient boats were now arriving. One, a small trawler operated by an elderly couple, came in and kept trying anchor about 25-30 yds from us. They were using an anchor ball but seemed uncertain about what they were doing finally setting the anchor not more than 30 or 40 ft from the bow of their boat in 11 ft of water... not nearly enough scope in my experience. Oh well... maybe they know more about this anchorage than me. 2130 - hit the sac. 2200 - Very windy.

Weal Sea and other boats are swinging on their anchors. Despite the fact that you have out 80 ft rode including 50 ft of chain, you still worry a bit. 2300 hr - Pat is still up reading. The wind now is really up and fierce. We have our forward hatch awning up so we can keep the hatch open when it rains to allow air to circulate through the cabin. It was thrashing in the wind so much that the noise woke me. Debating whether or not I'll have to go out and take it down. Sit up in v-berth & look out hatch. MY GOSH... that trawler that came in late & anchored near us seems closer... are we moving forward? I immediately check Madison on my port beam. She is still in the same place. Check the trawler again & she is even closer! HOLY BOVINE.. she's dragging anchor & coming down on us. I jump out of bed and race past Pat reading in the salon to the cockpit to check our situation; we are holding firm. I call to Pat to hand me the air horn explaining that the trawler is dragging anchor. Just as she hands me the horn, the starboard side of the trawler hits our our port stern quarter. I am very concerned that the trawler's anchor will hook ours and pull it free then drag us along with them into the shallows.

I hold the horn out & give several blasts & yell as loudly as possible, "You're dragging anchor!" I can actually touch the starboard cabin of the trawler with the horn over both our rails. I continue to give multiple blasts trying to raise someone inside. Finally a light comes on & I can see 2 confused people staggering around inside. They struggle & finally come out on deck. By this time the trawler has slid past us & is heading slowly toward the beach 150 yds behind us. They appear not to have hooked our anchor. The couple still seems confused and ask, "Where's our anchor ball?" I try to explain again that they have dragged anchor & are headed for the shore. Finally I go below & grab our rechargeable flood light & use it to help them spot their anchor ball. They are lucky... their anchor seemed to reset itself about 20 yds off shore which prevents them from going aground. Eventually they get their motor started & haul in the anchor. However, they move the trawler up-wind in front of us AGAIN & try to reset the anchor in the same spot! I can't believe it! No luck... Thank goodness. They try several times & eventually move further away & off to our starboard. I watch them for the next hour from our v-berth hatch using binoculars. Their cabin lights remained on the entire night with someone wandering around. I set an alarm for 60-90 minutes to remind me to check to see if they have moved. Eventually get to sleep @ 0400.

9-24-05
(Sat), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0730 - Up & Breakfast. Clear, BP 30.10, Temp 70 F, Windy. NOAA weather says wind out of S and seas up until Tuesday (9-26-05). I'm still tired after our experience with the trawler last night... really did not sleep well. The trawler is gone! No idea where they went.  0900 - took dinghy over to Cool Change. Paul said he was up in the cockpit late because of the winds and concern about the anchor.  However, his also held well. He did observe what had occurred and heard our horn trying to alert the trawler.  He had not, however, realized it was Weal Sea the trawler was coming down on since it was very dark in the crowded anchorage and we were at least 200 yds away on the opposite side the fairway which runs E-W up the middle of the harbor between the breakwater and the shore. He also saw the trawler re-anchor at least 2-3 times. We discuss itinerary and agreed the weather will not be favorable for sailing south until Tuesday.

1045 - dinghed over to Madison.  Bob and Sally also heard the horn last night and got up to watch the events... the trawler passed  Madison on her starboard side but missed them. 0100 - took dinghy to shore to visit library. On the way, I stopped by police station, which is in the same building, and asked if there was a local Heath Department. The office I spoke to said no and asked why. I explained our experience with trying to get potable water at the municipal dock only to discover they were using the same hose to fill dinking water tanks and flush toilet holding tanks on boats.  He was not aware of this and expressed concern. He said he would check into it and make a report. Went to library and checked hotmail account then back to boat. Dinner then some reading. 2030 - hit the sac.

9-25-05
(Sun), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0730 - Up and breakfast.  Clear, BP 30.90, Temp 60 F. No wind - harbor like a mirror. No one departing today. 1000 - Paul dinghied over. We talked and I asked about their plans and where they would be putting their boat up in the Chesapeake Bay.  Paul said they had decided to continue on. Great. However, they are concerned about their daughter-in-law who is expecting and they plan to take it a day at a time. 0130 - Checked NOAA weather. Still looks like Tuesday is the first real opening for favorable weather (winds and seas) for heading south. We could make Barnegat Bay, about 40 mi south, or possibly Atlantic City, another 20 mi in one day depending on when we left Sandy Hook.  The alternative would be an overnighter all the way to Cape May, over 100 miles. Have to think about that one after our experience last year going from Hammond, IN to Muskegon, MI; Gives Pat bad vibes!
Went ashore for awhile then back to boat... really getting bored; We've been here 12 days now. "Need to go where its warm!", as Jimmy B would say. 2030 - Went to bed.

9-26-05
(M), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0730 - Up, coffee and cheese. 0900 - dinghied over to Madison. Bob & Sally said there was going to be a pot-luck get together of the southbound transients at 1800 on shore. Will likely discuss tomorrows plans for heading out. Weal Sea & Cool Change both plan to attend. Return to Weal Sea and decide to scrub down her hull; really looking sad. 1400 - Bob Logcher (s/v Cyngnet) dinghied over while I was cleaning the hull and introduced himself. Discovered he attended graduate school at Massachusetts Institute of Technology the same time Pat & I were there in the late 60's.  He stayed on as a faculty member in Civil Engineering & knew several of the individuals in my department including a member of my graduate committee, Steve Tannenbaum... small world!

1800 - Transients gathered at the pagoda on shore for pot-luck. There were at least 10 boats represented. Among the new people we met were Mimi & Sam Cooper (s/v Green Eggs 'n Sam) from Danvers, MA, Jim Noeleen & Nicola Looney, their daughter & dog (s/v SeaLoon) from San Antonio, TX and Ireland, respectively, and Bruce McKenna & Barbara Fagan (s/v Messin About) from Portsmouth, NH. Everyone is departing tomorrow but the groups are leaving a different times with different destinations. Madison is leaving at first light & doing and overnighter for Cape May. Several are leaving a 1000 hr and going for Barnegat Bay or possibly Atlantic City. The latest NOAA weather report for Tuesday predicts NE-N winds @ 10-15 knots with occasional gust to 25 in the AM and seas of 3-4 ft. Winds will gradually shift to E then SE Wednesday PM, and finally S on Friday. They will not swing W or NW until Saturday. That means if we decide to sail to Barnegat Bay or Atlantic City, we will have to wait until Saturday to continue south... we don't want a SE, S or SW wind.  Weal Sea & Cool Change decide, with the agreement of the Admirals of course, to do an overnighter and go for Cape May!  We'll leave at 0800. Return to boats and hit the sac @~ 2030 hr.

9-27-05
(Tu), Anchorage, Atlantic Highlands, Sandy Hook, NJ: 0600 - Up, coffee & cheese. Clear, BP 30.05, Temp 60 F, Winds 20-25 knots out of N, seas 3-4 ft with white caps. 0800 - Getting ready to go forward to raise anchor and Pat asked me "What's the elongated object on shore is... could it be an oar?" Get binoculars and check. It is an oar and very possibly ours!  My motor is already on the carrying rack on the stern rail.  I see Stan (s/v Rum Runner) on deck next to us working.  His dinghy is still in the water & with its motor on.  I call over and explain my situation concerning our motor and the possibility that our oar has washed ashore. He says he'd be happy to give me a ride over. About this time, Paul radios us saying he has pulled anchor and is heading out north into the bay. His chartplotter does not have a chip of this area and he is depending on us to lead the way.  I explain that we will raise anchor ASAP but are first going to check out the oar on shore.

Stan comes along side, takes me onboard and we head for shore. I wade in so his motor doesn't hit bottom. SURE ENOUGH, IT IS OUR OAR!... Pat has an unbelievable knack for finding lost items! Stan run me back to the boat and we weigh anchor @ 0845. Rounding the breakwater we head directly into the wind and waves -- its really pounding with wave coming over our bow. I'm getting drenched and I do not have my foul weather gear on! Pat is sitting in the companion way under the dodger. Although its clear, we are having difficulty locating Cool Change. We radio Paul on VHF channel 68. He can see us coming out of the harbor and tells us he is about 1/4 mi ahead of us off our starboard bow. Sure enough, searching the horizon we spot Cool Change being pounded by the waves as she 'holds station' (sailor speak for "staying in one spot") waiting for us.

We push the throttle forward and Weal Sea's 30 hp engine responds pushing her forward at about 5.0-5.5 knots north toward the tip of Sandy Hook peninsula 5 miles away. Its a long hour with waves constantly coming over the bow and drenching me.  Cool Change falls behind.  She has a 25 hp engine and is having trouble keeping up. We make it to the tip of the peninsula and hold station again waiting for Cool Change.  Although the channel between the bay and open sea at the north end of Sandy Hook peninsula is well buoyed, its much easier and reassuring if you have a chartplotter showing you your headings and giving the depths.

Once we rounded the tip of hook and were headed south, we let out our head sails and gradually pointed Weal Sea's bow slightly SE off shore for about 2-3 miles then almost directly south. It was a great feeling! We were finally sailing and headed south again. Over the next several hours the seas seem to smooth out. However, the winds were steady and we sometimes hit 8 knots! About 1300 hr we looked back and could see at least 3 other sailboats on the distant horizon following us. We were fairly certain that these were the other members of the southbound transients that planned to depart about 1000 hr. Weal Sea lead since our chartplotter chip covered the entire New Jersey coast, Cape May and all of the Delaware Bay. We set the autopilot and relaxed. Pat and I took turns on watch at the helm during the day and early evening. 2000 hr - Pat goes to bed. She is going to take the 2200-2330 hr watch (I did not want her to do more an 1 1/2 hr per watch). Paul and I had discussed how we would handle the watches on our respective boats. He would always be on watch on Cool Change when Pat was on watch on Weal Sea. I would be on watch on Weal Sea when Mary was on watch on Cool Change.  We would also "close up ranks" throughout the night so the boats were usually no more than 75-150 yds apart. In addition, we always radioed each other every 30 minutes or so to the see how the other boat was doing.

Weal Sea had her CD or satellite radio (a gift from Mike & Darla) feeding music to the cockpit speakers during much of the night. 2330 - Dan gets up, makes a cup of coffee, and takes over the watch on Weal Sea. Its an exceptionally  clear night with stars filling the sky.  It seems like they have multiplied a thousand-fold at sea with the usually faintest star shining brightly and twinkling in the blackness of space. In contrast to our experience at Sandy Hook, cell phone towers along the New Jersey coast are fairly good off shore so we have talked to a number of our family and friends. 1200 - We are passing Atlantic City about 3 miles off shore! Its now Wednesday. (Log cont. on 9-28-05)

9-28-05
(W), Atlantic Ocean, ~ 3 miles off Atlantic City, NJ: 0005 hr - Its just after midnight and I'm on watch with Pat sleeping. We are cruising south just a few miles off shore from Atlantic City. The colored lights illuminating the boardwalk, hotels and casinos give the city a carnival midway-like appearance brightening the sky for miles around. Just checked-in with Mary on Cool Change via VHF radio. Paul is down below sleeping. They are just off our starboard quarter about 100 yds... everything is fine. The moon will rise in about an hour. We both agree its been a fantastic night for sailing... couldn't possibly be better.  0100 - Pat is up, has a cup of tea and takes the watch. I hit the sac but wake up a few times to hear Pat and Paul checking-in and  chatting. We've discovered our bow running lights are not working. I'll have to check them out when we get to Cape May.

0230 - I'm up. Pat tells me she is willing to continue her watch for another hour or so but I'm awake and take over. I've decided to take the watch until dawn. I don't want to enter the Cape May breakwater before first light. 0500 - In the distance, we can make out the Cape May breakwater but its faint. Paul has also taken the helm of Cool Change to enter the breakwater. We are now motoring and have cut back our throttle to 4 knots so we do not arrive too early;  Chart plotter tide tables indicate that sunrise at Cape May is at 0650. 0640 - Can now make out numerous charter fishing boats exiting the breakwater heading out to sea.

The radio towers with their blinking red lights at the Coast Guard Station have been visible for hours.  Now we can clearly see the red & white painted towers in the sunlight as it breaks over the eastern horizon.  0700 - About 200 yds off the end of the breakwater we make a hard turn to starboard the enter the Cape May breakwater... it must be 1/4- 1/2 mi wide. The seas have been choppy but they smooth out immediately once inside the breakwater's protective walls. We continue in following the buoyed channel but remain off to one side keeping out of the way of large commercial fishing boats returning with their night's catch. They set up quite a wake as they come in with their "net booms" extending out from each side like 60 ft telephone poles. About 1 mi in from the open waters the channel make a sharp, nearly 90 degrees, port turn then straightens out.  Ahead of us on our port side is the Cape May Coast Guard Station and Training Facility. There are already several sailboats anchored in front of the station about 50 yds off shore and immediately inside the buoyed channel. Among these is s/v Madison, who we met in Sandy Point.  We found out later they had arrived at 2300 hr the previous night. Bob & Sally wave to us as we pass by and drop anchor 200 yd in front of them and about 50 yds off shore (38.57.02 N, 74.53.20 W).

The water here is about 10 ft deep; we put out 70 ft of rode.   It's now 0735 hr, almost exactly 23 hr since we left Atlantic Highlands, Sandy Hook, NJ. The sky is clear, and the warm sun is bright & rising in the morning sky.  Both Pat and I are exhausted but we smile... we made it! Then we HIT THE SAC (0800 hr).

1030 - Up, Coffee. Although I've not gotten much sleep, the biological clock still will not let me sleep. (Note - there is a US Coast Guard training center here. When we arrive Pat had not realized this and saw men in dark uniforms marching around.... she though we had anchored off a prison! The trainees march between buildings in formation chanting. You can hear them respond to commands... "YES SIR!,,, NO SIR!", etc. loudly as a group).  Cool Change is anchored about 75 yds further up the channel from us. We spent the rest of the day relaxing and organizing the boat. Talked to Paul via VHF.  Mary is feeling a bit under the weather and has been resting. Telephoned Arne & Bev (Scandia) and told them of our arrival in Cape May.  They are anchored in Annapolis, MD. Weather forecast for next 2 days is not great for heading north on the Delaware Bay & it looks like we'll stay put. 2030 - Hit the sac. 

9-29-05
(Thur), Anchorage, Cape May Channel, Cape May, NJ: 0630 - Up & coffee. BP 30.50, Temp 65 F. Overcast and rain. It feels cool. Wind is out of north 15-20 knots with gust up to 35 knots. Weal Sea is staining at her anchor but this is good holding and she is doing fine. Several other boats have arrive and are anchored between Cool Change and us as well as between ourselves and the Coast Guard training facility on shore. Madison has departed... they leave at first light.  They were not too concerned about the weather and needed to get to Annapolis, MD.  We are not going anywhere today. Stayed on the boat and read. 2100 - Hit the sac. Wind continued through the night.

9-30-05
(F), Anchorage, Cape May Channel, Cape May, NJ.: 0730 - Up & coffee. Clear & sunny, BP 30.50, Temp 60 F. Mild breeze. Got down to 55 degrees (F) last night. NOAA weather says winds will shift to east late today. We could go at least part way up the Delaware to Cohenasey River. However, Paul is looking for a favorable tide and wants to go all the way the Chesapeake City on the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal. We're in no hurry and agreed to wait another day when the winds are forecast to be out of the SE-S. 0930 - Checkout the bow running light and discover  whoever replaced it last time used an incorrect type Series 25 AquaSignal bulb. Fortunately I have a spare. Pat stands on the bow and holds the dingy in place with ropes while I stand in the dinghy to change the bulb. 1130 - Pat & I decide to  dinghy into Uschts Marina where we tie up and walk the docks.  Decide to have lunch at The Lobster House.

They had a fire the previous Monday but are still open for eating on their docks. Its a huge operation.  The restaurant is right on the dock with fishing boats tied up next to the restaurant. Pat has shrimp and I had fish. 1300 - Its getting hot, must be in the 80s. Walked to the village to check out the shops and visit marine stores. I pick up a gallon of oil for Weal Sea and replacement bulbs for the bow running light. Back to Uschts Marina. The  lady at the marina allowed me to use her office telephone to send pocketmail. 1400 - Return to boat. Checked out the channel into Uschts where we will fuel up during return trip. The channel is narrow here and it would be easy to run aground, only 2-3 ft in some places. Paul and I are planning to refuel today.  1515 - Pat and Mary want to go back to the Lobster House to pick up some takeout & bread. Since Paul has already fueled up, he and Mary ride into Urschts with us. 1545 - Fuel up (10.87 gal diesel, $28.80, eng. hr = 1627.6).

Ladies still have not returned and there is another boat waiting to use the fuel dock. Paul will stay behind with "U'll Sea" (that's the name we've give our dinghy) and bring Mary and Pat back to the anchorage. I head out the channel.  A few minutes later I see Paul and the ladies heading back.  I slow down and let Paul drop Mary off at Cool Change.  He then brings U'll Sea and Pat back to to Weal Sea. He comes aboard and helps me anchor. We discuss tomorrows itinerary. We plan to leave between 0700 & 0800. I then run Paul back to Cool Change. 2030 - hit the sac.


Pat & Dan Harrington
S/v Weal Sea
saildan@pocketmail.com

 

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