November 2005

10-31-05 (Mon.) - 11-4-05 (Fri.), St. George, Grenada:
Completed 2nd and final week of lectures and laboratories.  It went very well and I have been asked to come back in again the last week of March (2006) and first week in April to lecture on Pathology of the Integumentary System. Will over-lap with Dr. John Van Vleet from Purdue who will be there lecturing on the Cardiovascular System. Pat and I will still be in the Bahamas but will make time to do the trip; will have to fly out of Georgetown in the Exumas or Marsh Harbour in the Abacos. During the week, one of the veterinary medical students had a dog with an interesting skin disease which was stumping the clinicians and pathologists. Dr. Bhaiyat had looked at the biopsy but was uncertain as to the cause of the lesions.  The quality of the biopsy was poor but it looked like a monocytic interface type reaction. I suggested a set of new biopsies. The next sets of punch biopsies were excellent. There was in fact a monocytic interface type reaction. The cell type was lymphoid and there appeared to be invasion of the epithelium with formation of intraepithelial "lymphoid pustules" as seen in "Mycosis Fungoids", a form of cutaneous lymphosarcoma. I suggested that a set of slides be sent to Purdue for lymphocytes cell typing and a second opinion. I am really curious as to what the results were. Have not heard yet.

11-5-05 (Sat.), St. George, Grenada:
Pat and I spend the day at the beach and pool then took the bus to a marina.  I wanted to see if I could find Dr. Tom and Cindy Barkdull's sailboat which had been damaged in Grenada during hurricane Ivan.  We found it and Tom appears to be getting her in shape for re-launching this January.

11-6-05 (Sun.), St. George, Grenada:
Our last day here. We leave tomorrow to return to Herrington Harbour in Deale / Tracy's Landing,  Maryland.  We have packed most of our things. The University has a van picking us up at 6:00 am since we need to check-in at 6:30 am for our 8:30 am flight. However, for our last evening in Grenada Hugh & Pats Larkin have invited us to have dinner with them and some friends at the "Aquarium", a seaside restaurant. We had a lovely evening and returned back to our bungalow about 9:00 pm.

11-7-05 (Mon.), St. George, Grenada: 5:30 am - Up.
University van picked us up promptly at 6:00 am and delivered us to the airport at 6:20 am. Check-in went smoothly and our plane departed on time at 8:30 am. Arrived San Juan, Puerto Rico at 11:00 am for our 7 plus-hour lay-over. Departed San Juan @ 6:40 pm and arrived at BWI at 9:45 pm. Picked up our Hertz rental car and drove to Herrington Harbour about 40 miles south. Stopped at a restaurant in Annapolis on the way.  Had not had a good meal all day. Arrived back to Weal Sea (Boy she
looked GOOD!) about 12 midnight and hit the sac about 1:00 am (11-8-05).

11-8-05 (Tue.), Herrington Harbour, Deal / Tracy's Landing, MD: 
0730 - Up & breakfast. BP 30.40, Temp -60 F, Sunny and clear.  0930 - Drove to Annapolis for Pat's 1040 appointment / post-procedure check-up with Dr. Speciale. Everything is just fine.  Gave Pat some instructions & wished us luck on our trip.  He also suggested that it might worthwhile for her to stop in for another check-up on our return trip north from the Bahamas next year. She agreed & said she would make an appointment when we were certain of our itinerary.  1130 - Pat is relieved with the check-up and decides to "melt a credit card" ... went shopping at the Mall.  1600 - Picked up our dinghy which we had left at "Airwork" for another patching before we went to Grenada. 1630 - Drove the rental car back to Hertz.   The manager drove us the 20 miles back to Herrington Harbour. 1800 - Pat decided that she wanted crab legs for dinner so we walked (!) to Happy Harbour Restaurant , ate and then walked back .  2030 - telephoned the children, Paul & Mary, and Bev & Arne to report the good news regarding Pat's check-up.... then hit the sack.

11-9-05 (Wed), .), Herrington Harbour, Deal / Tracy's Landing, MD: 
0700 - Up and breakfast. BP 30.20, Temp - 55, rain & drizzle.  Forecast calls for fog.  Decided to stay put for another day and clean up to boat and get organized for our trip south and WARM WEATHER! We are really anxious to get underway.  2045 - hit the sack.

11-10-05 (Thurs.), Herrington Harbour, Deal / Tracy's Landing, MD:
0545 - Up - coffee, cheese & bagel.  BP 30.35, Temp 60, clear.  Winds predicted to be 15-25 kts out of the north.... We are headed south for Solaman's Island  (N 37.40.28, W 76.19.29) and will have a following sea. 0800 - Slip our dock lines and head SE  out Hering Bay then south on the Chesapeake.  It clear and sunny and we have our head sail out. Winds are 25 then 30 kts with white caps behind us. Waves start to build 3-4 ft sometimes hitting 5 ft. The weather channel now has "small craft warning" on the Chesapeake.  We find out later from another boat (Gary on s/v "Catspaw", a 38 ft Island Packet) following us from Herrington Harbour that they had recorded occasional gusts of 40 to 46 kts! Wow did we move.  Weal Sea handles GREAT and we felt very comfortable.  1330 - Arrive in Solaman's Island.  This anchorage consists of several narrow interconnected channels lined on both side by numerous marinas... very busy.  There were about 5 other boats already at anchored when we arrived.  Despite being a "protected" anchorage, the winds were sufficiently high that everyone put out 2 anchors, including us. It was cool and we had our propane heater going much of the evening. 2030 - hit the sac.

11-11-05 (Fri.), Anchorage,  Solomon's Island, MD (N 37.40.28, W 76.19.29):
0545 - Up. BP 30.07, clear, Temp 40 F! -- COOL Out - dressed WARM!  Talked to Gary on "Catspaw" on VHF 68.  He said he was continuing south and wondered where we were going.  Decided to try for "Fleet Bay".  0700 - Pulled anchor and headed for the fuel dock.  Took on 14 gal. diesel  @$2.35 / gal.  0805 - Cleared fuel dock and headed south.  Winds had moderated since yesterday, 15-20 kts and out of the NW. 1200 - crossed Potomac River. The river is a few miles across where it enters the Chesapeake Bay and the currents are VERY HEAVY.... Rough crossing.... Be prepared if you make this  passage. 1530 - Arrive Fleet Bay and anchored with Catspaw in 10-15 ft of water in a small cul-de-sac, "Rowe Bay", behind a tiny island named Grog Island (N 37.40.30,  W 76.19.70). The winds had dropped to 5 kts or less and the waters became smooth. This is a quite & lovely place to anchor. 1600 - Dinner.  1800 - Rowed over to Catspaw for snacks and wine with Gary.  1930 - Returned to Weal Sea and hit the sack about 2000.  We want to pull anchor early tomorrow so as to make Norfolk, VA before dark.


11-13-05 (Sun), Deep Creek Lock, Great Dismal Swamp Canal, ICW, Mile 10.5 (N 36.44.89, W 76.20.29):
0630 - Up. BP 30.98, Temp 40 F, bright clear day. 0800 - Raise anchor and turn on motor to hold position in channel.  Two other sailboats approach from Norfolk direction (north) and hold position behind us waiting for the lock to open.  We recognize them as being from the group which had anchored at Hospital Point (M 0.0) the previous evening. We radio the lock master on VHF 13 at 0820 and request an opening.... No response. Radio again at 0825... No response.  Other boats behind us are also
radioing in requesting an opening. 0835 - Finally a response!  The lock master apologized and said his car had broken down about a mile down the road and he had to walk to the lock. The lock opens at 0845 and we are the first to enter.  The lock master is a young friendly fellow and has a collection of conch shells in a garden in front of his office next to the lock. He serenades the boats by blowing a tune on one of the shells as the boaters wait for the lock to fill or empty depending on the direction you are going. The shell collection is a result of gifts given to the lock master by the various boaters who have passed through over the years. We promise we will bring him back one from the Bahamas on our return trip.  The lock master also operates the Deep Creek Bridge at M 10.9.  Therefore, you motor rather slowly on exiting the lock in order to give him time to get from the lock to the bridge. (Note - There are 2 locks on this segment of the ICW. The Deep Creek Lock at M 10.5 and the South Mills Lock at M 33.2)

The trip down the canal is a remarkable experience especially in the fall when the leaves are starting to turn color.  The canal is only 75-100 yds wide in most places and is lined stubs of the old pilings at the water's edge and tall hardwood trees on the shores which form a partial arch over the canal.  You need to be alert and not drift to close to the edges of the canal or you mast is likely to encounter an over hanging branch. I was enjoying the scenery so much that that is exactly what happened to me. I damaged my radar reflector (I have spare) and bent my Windex!

Highway (US 17) parallels the canal much of its distance. However, you generally do not see or hear the autos in most places because of the trees and shrubs.  But, there are occasional picnic tables on the banks of the canal where motorist stop and watch the passing boats.  We cross over the Virginia - North Carolina state line just before M 25.  There are several anchorages and free docks (for overnight tie-up) along the canal (see Skipper Bob's book for their locations).  One of the docks is at the North
Carolina Auto & Boater Welcome Station on the road next to the canal at M 28.0.  We saw several boats tied up there as well as motorist standing on the dock watching and waving to us as we passed by.

1715 - Arrive at Elizabeth City Municipal Dock (FREE DOCK), ICW M 51.0.  The docks are right downtown at the waterfront park.  A number of boaters are already here and several come out on the dock to take our lines to help us tie up.  There is a tradition here started by Fred Fearing and friends in 1983 to welcome boaters; if there are 4 or more boats, they will host a mini
wine and cheese party on the dock.  We arrive at the tail end of the party but did get a small glass of wine but no cheese.... Oh well, maybe next time. We met several boaters here. Karen & Jeff (s/v Sophonese) gave us some Northern Spy Apples which Pats intends to use for an Apple Pie.  We decided to eat out this evening and had a excellent buffet dinner at a local restaurant. 2030 - Hit the sack

11-14-05 (Mon.), City Dock, Elizabeth City, NC, ICW M 51.0:
0500 - Up. BP 30.98, Temp 50 F.  Clear. 0700 - Departed. Several boats have already left ahead of us.  Followed ICW down the North River east past Camden Point & entered Albmarle Sound at M 65.0.  Crossed the sound and entered Alligator River. The river is quite broad here and is 0.75 to1.5 miles across between M 82 and M 101. We need diesel and decide to fuel up at Alligator River Marina (M 84.1) on the west side of the river immediately adjacent to the Alligator River Swing Bridge (M84.2). 

It's a beautiful sunny day with a temperature of about 75 F.  Fuel up at the dock (21.8 gal @ $2.20 / gal) where we meet Mike Smith and his wife Rana (a TV producer) who sail a beautiful 45 ft back ketch named "Raven".  I have trouble using the fuel hose since the handle is difficult to compress and the automatic shut-off seems to stick.  I try to remove the hose and a bit of fuel spurts into the water next to the boat. The dock man had mentioned that they had been having trouble with the hose for some time and that the cut-off was broken.  But, he notes the spurt of fuel and tells me that it could cost me $25,000 fine and that I might be getting a post card from the EPA! (I interpret this to mean he is going to report me).  I explain that the hose shut-off valve is sticking (which he already knows!) but he ignores me.  I am very upset and mention the problem to Mike (s/v Raven) who is docked in front of us.  Mike tells me he is an "environmental lawyer" and he will check into it and discuss the situation with the dock man; he and Rana were taking a slip at the marine that night.  We exchanged boat-cards which have our e-mail addresses and cell phone numbers on them.  He tells me not to worry and that he'll contact me after he talked to the dock man. (I did get an e-mail from him 2 days later. He had talked to the dock man and told him that the marina would likely get into more trouble than me since they were selling fuel and allowing boat owners using their faulty equipment!

The dock man immediately backed off.  However, Mike told me that if I had any future problems with them I should immediately contact him. Never did hear from the "marina" or the EPA, but I did see Mike a week later and thanked him for the assistance). Leaving the marina, we pass through the swing bridge and continue south on the Alligator Rive to M 101 where the river turns sharply west (starboard).  However, we make a sharp turn east (port) at G35 (Green Can 35)  and anchor in a small bay next to Swan Creek with 2 other boats in about 8 ft of water at 1730 hr.  One of the boats is s/v "Sowelu", a 32 ft cutter-rigged wooden sloop built in 1928.  It is owned by a couple (Karen & Stephen).  They invite us over for snacks and wine. Stephen is originally from England and Karen is from New Hampshire. Karen is a licensed captain and they hire themselves and their boat out during the summers in New England to individuals who want to spend a day or 2 on an old classic wooden
boat.  Currently, they are taking a year off to do the Bahamas (their first trip also). 2000 - Return to Weal Sea and hit the sack.


11-15-05 (Tue.), Anchorage, Alligator River, ICW M 101.0:
0500 - Up. BP 30.95, Temp 60 F.  Overcast with slight drizzle. 0730 - Departed. Follow Alligator River  W-SW 4 miles to M 105  where we enter the Alligator River-Pungo River Canal (by-the-way, we never did see any alligators on the Alligator River).  This canal meanders SW then W 21 miles where it connects up with the Pungo River.  Entering the Pungo we continue an additional 9 miles to Belhaven, NC at ICW M 135.  We consider stopping at Dowry Creek Marina since we need groceries and Skipper Bob's book said the marina there has courtesy cars.  Also, Karen and Stephen (s/v Sowelu) had mentioned that there was a refurbished mansion (Bed & Breakfast) there associated with the marina which is famous for its buffet and fried oysters.  They were planning on stopping there to eat.

The marina is actually just up the Pantego Creek off the Pungo River. There are "poles" marking  a narrow channel (about 30-40 ft wide) leading up to the marina dock.  We radio a head & ask for directions since others have reported heavy shoaling in this area. It is also very windy & we are having trouble steering when we are motor slowly when entering unfamiliar marinas. The man on the dock (who we find out later had only been working there about a week!) tries to give us instructions but keeps changing his mind as to which side the dock we should approach!  We slow down even more & the wind pushes us off to the port side and AGROUND!  We are stuck & our rudder is jammed.  This is the first time we have even run aground. We radio the dock man & explain our situation.  He tells us he'll contact a towboat.  Within 15 minutes an red "Towboat US" boat comes out from the marina.  They throw us a line & pull us back out into the main channel. We tell them we have Towboat US Insurance but they just wave us off.  It turns out the marina operates the Towboat US service & we suspect they felt it was their fault we ran aground because of poor instructions from their dock man.  Also it's a private marina channel & it's possible they had not had it dredge the channel recently and felt partially responsible.

We dock at the marina & take on additional diesel.  Although we do not plan to take a slip here, we ask the dock man about using one of their courtesy golf carts to get groceries (the supermarket is about 3 miles away).  He said sure & gives us one to use.  However, about 5-6 blocks into town the battery died!  Pat & I start to push the cart off to the side of the street when 2 fellows painting a house see our problem and gets off their ladder & comes over to help us. About the same time, a lady driving by in a pick-up truck stops & asks if she can help. She said she would be happy to take Pat and I back to the marina to see about getting another golf cart. (It amazing how friendly people are in the "south"). Back at the marina they say they are waiting for one of their other carts to return.  In the mean time, the lady in the pick-up said she would drive Pat to the supermarket. I wait about 30 minutes.... still no carts.  The owner of the marina happens to walk by & asked if he can help.  I explain the situation. He immediately takes out gives me the keys to his own van to go pick Pat up! (Another friendlygesture!). I pick Pat up & return to the marina.  As we are unloading groceries from the van 2 young dock hands walk up & insist on carrying our groceries out to our boat at the end of the fuel dock.(Another example of southern hospitality!).  After loading the boat we decide to have lunch at the B&B.  It's a great buffet & we would recommend it to anyone passing through Belhaven. Departing Belhaven we continue on to ICW M 140 and anchor at the mouth of Slade Creek on the east side of the Pungo River. It's been an interesting day, especially the grounding!

11-16-05 (Wed.), Anchorage, Slade Creek of Pungo River, ICW M 140:
0600 - Up. BP 30.80, Temp 65 F.  Clear and sunny. 0700 - Weigh anchor. Follow Pungo River south to where it empties into the Pamlico River at ICW M 145.  We cross the Pamlico River and enter Goose Creek at M 150. Up ahead we see s/v Raven (Mike & Rana's boat from Alligator River Marina).  She is motoring and motor-sailing when she has the opportunity.  0930 - Following the river south about 5 miles, we enter a narrow "cut" (canal) at M 155 which connects Goose Creek with the Bay River at M 160. Enter Bay River at 1015 hr. Bay River itself empties into the much larger Neuse River at ICW M 165. This is almost a bay which runs S-SW past Oriental, NC on its NW shore.  We had been planning on stopping at Oriental, a town known for being very helpful to boaters.  However, the winds are starting to build (20-25 kts), there are white caps, and we are motor-sailing making 7-8 knots!  Therefore, we decide we can stop here on our return trip north and agree to try to get to Beaufort / Morehead City, NC today (at ICW  M 205).  We enter Adams Creek at M 185 and continue south into the Adams Creek  Cut (canal)which connects to the Newport River.  We pass ICW 195 at 1525 hr and arrive at the Newport River ICW M 200 at 1600 hr! We've done 60 miles (they use Statue Miles on the ICW) in 9 hours. That's about 6.7 mph, not bad on the ICW for a sailboat. It's an hour or so to sundown and we press on.  We've now caught up with Raven and are following her down the ICW. They are going to try to get into an anchorage in Beaufort or a slip if one is available.

The "Gallants Cut" off the ICW in to Beaufort is closed due to shoaling. Therefore, we both start down the Russell Slough Channel leading into the Gallants Channel toward Beaufort.  Suddenly, Raven turn around and starts back up the channel. They pull up close to our port side and tell us they have just learned that the Beaufort bascule bridge on the Gallants Channel is closed from 1640 to 1740 on weekdays because of home-bound auto traffic (Note - there are a number of bridges on the ICW which remain closed during certain hours the morning and late afternoon for autos going to or from work..  Skipper Bob's book gives the hours.).  We had forgotten to check Skipper Bob. This meant we would have to detour an additional 2-4 miles to get into Beaufort and an anchorage or slip.  It was getting late and there was no way we could make it before dark.  NO ONE travels on the ICW at night!   We decide we can make Portside Marina in Morehead City (N 34.43.12, W 76.42.31) across from Beaufort before dark.  It's just 2 miles down stream.  We radio ahead and they have a slip available ($1.25 / ft). We arrive at dusk - 1710 hr. They have an excellent full service marine and ships store as well as free showers and laundry... which we take advantage of!  We are both exhausted; it's been the longest distance we've traveled on the ICW so far, 65 miles.

11-17-05 (Thurs.), Slip, Portside Marina, Morehead City, NC (N 34.43.12, W76.42.31), ICW M 205:
0500 - Up BP 30.70, Temp 65, Overcast. 0700 - Cast off and start down ICW... Problem! Alternator is not charging our batteries. Turn around and return to Portside Marina.  Checked alternator and external regulator. I suspect the regulator is not working. We have a "deadline" and need to get to Charleston, SC to meet up with Chris and Ben Holland for Thanksgiving. I could try replacing the external alternator with our old alternator.  However there is no guarantee it will work. We do have our Honda generator on board and we decide to push on.  We can recharge our batteries along the way using our generator at night when we anchor. 1140 - Head west out of Morehead City on ICW and enter Bogue Sound which is separated from the Atlantic Ocean by a narrow strip of land, the Bogue Banks. 1345 - Reach ICW M 220. Continue past Bogue Inlet (between the Atlantic Ocean and Bogue Sound) at ICW M 230. At this point, the ICW passes through a portion of Camp LeJeune, the US Marine Training Base.  There is a Firing Range between ICW M 235 and M 241 which can be closed for hours. Southbound boaters can call the Swansboro Coast Guard Station at M 229 and check the status of the range. An alternative is to listen to AM 530 for military maneuver information. A "sign" at ICW M 235 also indicates the status of the range. We approach the "sign" and it is clear there is no firing range activity.  We continue on.  Our destination today is the Mile Hammock Bay anchorage at M 244.5. This is a popular anchorage between Morehead City (M 205) and Wrightville Beach (M 283). The anchorage is actually a basin dredged out by the military for use by Camp LeJeune. However, boaters are allowed to use it (anchor light required at night) but you must stay off the shoreline which is military property. 1700 - Arrived Mile Hammock Bay and anchored (N 34.33.08, W 77.19.43, ICW M 244.5).  It's a bit crowded since it is not a large anchorage. There are 9 other boats already here and 2 more arrive after we are anchored.  Although the anchorage is in the "boon-docks" / "swamps", it was a bit noisy until about 2200 hrs due to over-flights by military planes and helicopters. Ran our Honda generator to recharge batteries for a couple of hours... one of the best investments we've made!  If you do this trip, buy one!

11-18-05 (Fri.), Anchorage, Mile Hammock Bay, Camp LeJeune, NC (N 34.33.08, W 77.19.43), ICW M 244.5:
0445 - Up. BP 30.90, Temp 45 F, Clear, windy and cold.   0700 - Weighed anchor & departed. 1000 hr - Passed ICW M 265. 1500 hr - passed Wrightville Bridge at ICW 283.1 and passed ICW 291 at 1400 hr. Checked our ICW Strip Charts and it appears there is a good anchorage at the North Carolina State Park Marina (N 34.03.04, W 77.55.13) at ICW M 295.5 at the south end of the Snow Cut between Myrtle Grove Sound and Cape Fear River at Carolina Beach, NC.  We radio ahead and they have room for us.  However, when they ask us for our draft they indicate we had better move as fast as possible since the tide is falling.  The entrance channel to the marina is only 4 ft at low tide.  We need at least 4.5 and preferably 5.0 ft!  1515 hr - We arrive at the entrance to the marina and make a sharp turn to port.  It is a narrow channel and sure enough we "bump" bottom.  However, I goose the throttle and Weal Sea's 30 hp engine pushes us through.  It's a lovely small marina at a beautiful site.

11-19-05 (Sat.), Slip, North Carolina State Park Marina (N 34.03.04, W 77.55.13) at Carolina Beach, NC , ICW M 295.5:
0600 - Up. 0815 - Fueled up. 13. 6 gal diesel @ $3.25 /gal.  Wow... this is the most expensive diesel we've purchased so far!  0945 -Departed. ICW 308.6 - Cape Fear River Inlet - The currents can be rough at the inlet and we were fortunate the tide was with us. The ICW along the "Long Beach on Oak Island here is rather straight and almost boring.  There are, however, many beautiful homes is some areas. 1530 - crossed border between North and South Carolina and anchored at Little River at ICW 342 (N33.52.31, W 78.34.21).  This is NOT the best anchorage (we had been warned about it by others).  The day markers are confusing and the channel, which is off to the right here (west side),  has a great deal of shoaling.  Despite our best efforts, we ran AGROUND again!  Fortunately the tide was rising. I therefore dropped an anchor to keep us from drifting while the tide rose.  I then used our 15 lb Danforth "Lunch" anchor to kedge off as the tide rose. (I never thought I'd use that "tiny anchor" but I recommend every one carry one at least for kedging.  I can stand on the bow or stern and "throw it" 15-20 ft out away from the boat then use the wench to pull the boat off a shoal.).  Finally got free after about 1 hr and moved up the channel 50 yds to anchor in about 6 ft of water.

11-20-05 (Sun), Anchorage, Little River, SC at ICW 342 (N33.52.31, W78.34.21):
0530 - Up. BP 30.95, Temp 50 F. Overcast with drizzle. I want to pull anchor while tide is up. 0630 - A catamaran is leaving. They only draw about 3 ft and I ask them if they could give me the depths of the channel as they move out into the main stream.  I watch where they go and they call out the depths along the way. 0700 - Weigh anchor and follow the same rough used by the catamaran.  Depths held to about 6 ft the entire way.

0845 - Passed ICW M 350 at North Myrtle Beach.  Passed ICW M 365 at Myrtle Beach at 1045 and ICW M 385 at 1405.

1630 - Arrive at Georgetown, SC and anchored in river. Very crowded anchorage and there was considerable wind throughout the night. Furthermore, the holding is not great and we used 2 anchors.  Despite this, I didn't sleep well and was up several times checking out situation. Boats are moving every which way around us and we don't have a lot of room to maneuver. I am anxious and will be glad to get out of here ASAP tomorrow!

11-21-05 (Mon.), Anchorage, Sampit River, Georgetown, SC (N 33.21.80, W71.16.91), ICW M 402.5:
0450 - Had poor night sleeping; heavy winds and rain all night. Bottom here is mud with poor holding.  0630 - Winds worsen; estimate 25-30 knots. Rain is getting heavy with lightning and thunder in the distance. 0700 - We decide to pull our 2 anchors and move on.  Move out of Sampit River and into Winyah Bay. Rain is really intense now with winds increasing to 25 then 30 kts with occasional gust up to 40 kts for the first 3 hours.  However, we feel comfortable with our situation. Having our chart plotter as well as our strip charts assures us that we are on course. Wind finally starts to subside. Spot our first dolphins / porpoises near some crab pots at ICW M 414.  It was exciting to see them break the surface and blow their vents right next to our boat.  I've have never been this close to them before and it is something I'll never forget.  They seem so friendly. We follow "cuts which allow us to cross the North and South Santee Rivers and pass ICW M 424 at 1015 hr and the town of McClellville (M 430) at about 1050 hr.

We make ICW 438 at noon. Pat keeps track of our progress on the strip charts using the day markers along the ICW while I watch the chart plotter and keep an eye on our sonar depth meter. Cruising on ICW is entirely different than cruising on the Great Lakes, Ocean or large rivers. Its essential to be constantly alert watching your charts and chart plotter, as well as your depth meter and the day markers. However, the day markers can be misleading!  Because of shoaling, we, as well as most individual we spoke with, keep at least 15 to 20 away from them toward the center of the channel.  Also, EVERYONE we spoke to said that, despite their best efforts, they had occasionally either "bumped bottom" or "run aground".  (Note - Anyone that says they haven't is, to put it politely, "pulling your leg"!) 1430 - Passed M 456.  We've been in contact with Chris and Ben Holland via cell phone along the way and hope to be in Charleston (ICW M 469) by 1700. We've now increase our speed to 6.5-7.0 kts so as to make the Ben Sawyer Bridge (at ICW M 464.1) before 1600 hr.  This swing bridge "opens on request" but does have restricted hours, i.e. it is closed between 1600 and 1800 hr on weekdays for after-work auto traffic crossing.  We make the bridge at 1515 hr.  Entering the Charleston Harbor Inlet at M 463 the wind seems to build rapidly out of the north with numerous white caps. 

We check the WX (weather) channel and they report small craft warning with possible Gale Force winds out side the Inlet!  We cross the bay and enter the Cooper River passing under the large twin suspension bridge connecting Charleston and Mount Pleasant. We decide to anchor on the east shore between the Charleston City Marina and US Coast Guard Station in 15-20 ft of water.  The wind is REALLY blowing now (estimate 20-30 kts)and the anchorage is crowded.  All the boats have out 2 anchors!  We drop our 33 lb Bruce anchor and are about to set another anchor when a coast guard vessel approaches and tells us we must be at least 100 yards away front their "corner" buoys. 1830 - We finally manage to pull the Bruce in the heavy wind and move the boat another 50 yds up river where we set the Bruce out on 120 ft of rode (50 ft of chain and 70 ft of rope)and our 35 lb Danforth out on 100 ft of rode (6 ft of chain and 95 ft of rope).  Despite this, we swing a lot and I am still concerned about dragging;  I see another sleepless night ahead of me.  I set the clock and get up every 1.5 hours to check the anchors.

NOTE - ERROR in 11-21-05 (A), Weal Sea's Log: We anchored on the east shore of the Ashley River, NOT the Cooper River, just above the US Coast Guard Station in front of the City Marina.

11-22-05 (Tue.), Anchorage, Ashley River, Charleston, SC (N 32.46.58, W79.57.68), ICW M 469.3: 
I have a poor night sleeping. As in Georgetown the previous night, we had heavy winds all night long. I have my alarm set to wake me up to check anchors at 0130, 0300 and again at 0430. At 0430 it appears we have moved closer to the sailboat on our starboard. The wind does not seem to have subsided during the night and I note a light flashing out of the galley starboard portlight of our boat.  I dress quickly and go on deck.

It's still dark but I can see the other boat's skipper with a flashlight checking his anchors. We are about 25 to 30 yards apart and can talk to each other over the wind.  Jokingly he tells me, "If we get any closer, I take my coffee black"!  Despite using 2 anchors, I'm sure we have dragged. There is no way I'm going to be able to go back to sleep. 0600 - I talk to Pat and decide we need to move, possibly across the river to another anchorage. 0630 - It's a real struggle in the heavy winds and current but, after about 45 minutes, we finally manage to get both anchors up. 0715 -Pat's at the helm and we head up the river about 1/4 mi. to check out potential anchorage spots among the other boat already at anchor. A few are on mooring balls.  Nothing looks inviting. 0800 - I decide to telephone the Charleston City Marina to see if they might have a slip available. They say they may have one available later in the morning and to telephone back in a couple of hours. We continue to cruise up the river and I spot an opening between 2 large power boats tied to a large long dock.  The dock, which belongs to the City Marina, is just outside the breakwater protecting the marina's inner harbor and runs parallel to the river.  With any luck, I think I can slip in between the boats. I telephone the marina again and ask permission to tie up temporarily to the dock while waiting for a slip in the marina's harbor.  The harbor mistress tells me that will not be necessary; they just had a boat depart and they have a slip available for us now. What luck!

Because of the narrow fairways, the entry into the marina is a bit tricky but the marina's personnel give us excellent instructions.  Once inside the marina's protected seawall, the winds disappear and we have absolute calm. Its clear, the sun is bright and it is actually warming up. What a relief to get off the river out of the wind and currents. 0900 - The marina has 2 dock hands at our slip who help us tie up.  1015 - Telephone Chris and Ben. They arrived last night from Raleigh, NC and are staying in a motel not far from the marina. They will come by and meet us at our boat at 1700.  We eat a late breakfast then Pat does some laundry while I change the engine oil and start to clean up the boat.  1700 - Ben and Chris arrive.  It's great to see them again.  1800 - Bridget, Ben's daughter, and David, her husband, arrive. We all drive downtown and go to dinner at "Justine's", famous for its great southern home style food; if you visit Charleston, you must eat at Justine's.  1930 - While at dinner, I receive a cell phone call from Evelyn Kazacos.  She and Kevin are in Hilton Head, SC. They had sent us an e-mail and were going to try to visit with us. However, it appears now we they will not be able to get to Charleston.  We agree to meet in Lafayette when we return for Christmas. 2030 -Return to boat. 2045 - Exhausted after a busy day and not getting much in the way of sleep last night, we hit the sack.  Ben and Chris are to stop by tomorrow for breakfast and then plan to take us on a tour of the area before going to Bridget and David's home for a Carolina Shrimp Boil!

11-23-05 (Wed.), Slip, City Marina, Ashley River, Charleston, SC,  ICW M469.3:
0630 - Up & coffee. BP 30.55, Temp 45 F. Clear & sunny. We still have a bit more laundry which I promised Pat to do before Chris & Ben arrive.0800 - Put in laundry then went to marina office & asked about getting hold of an electrician to check out the alternator & regulator. They gave me the name & telephone number of a local marine electrician.  I telephoned him & he said he could stop by on Friday about 1300 hr. 0845 - Chris & Ben arrive & we have a great breakfast at the marina restaurant.  Spend rest of morning touring the area including some of the beaches. Meet up with Bridget who takes us on a tour of The Old Markets on Market St. in downtown Charleston, "The Citadel", & "Battery" with its numerous restored mansions along the waterfront. 1600 - Drive to Bridget & David's home.  David is marine biologists and an avid fishing & hunting sportsman who has just returned from a deer hunt.  He didn't get one but one of his hunting buddies did.  Chris, Ben, Pat & I relax & talk while Bridget & David prepare the Shrimp Boil.  1800 - Meal is ready... what a feast: Shrimp (with HOT sauce), sausage, corn, potatoes & other vegetables plus sweet tea. What hospitality.  David, who netted all the shrimp himself, has to educate me on the technique of removing the shells from the shrimp.... we feel stuffed!  2130 - Return to boat & hit the sack (2200 hr).  Tomorrow we go to David's parent's home for Thanksgiving.

11-24-05 (Thurs. - Thanksgiving), Slip, City Marina, Ashley River, Charleston, SC,  ICW M 469.3:
0800 - Up & breakfast. BP 30.31, Temp 70 F. Beautiful clear, warm & sunny day. 1030 - Chris & Ben arrive & take us on another tour including a beach where surfers are enjoying the waves.  1200 - Meet up with Bridget & drive to David's parent's home. David's parent's, David, Sr. & Shelby Smoak, live in a restored 1800 home in the country on the ICW about 20 miles south of Charleston. It's in a beautiful setting with numerous hundred-year old Live Oak trees with Spanish moss hanging from their branches.  One of the trees next to the house has a huge branch which droop down to the ground & must to be supported by poles.  The grandchildren have a rope swing attached to the branch & giggle & shout excitedly "Higher! Higher! Higher!" as the adults gently push them on the swing.  I stood there wondering how many generations children that ancient tree has had swinging on it branches? There is also a dock extending out from the shore in backyard into the ICW with "Saw Grass" along its banks.  David took me out on to the dock & showed me how he cast a net to catch shrimp and bait fish.  He caught one small fish.  I had no success at all but it was fun trying!  Back on shore David takes time to show me how to crack open Pecan nuts he takes from a basket drying in the sun. I must have eaten a dozen. Many more family members have now arrived, each bringing a special dish to share. 1330 - Dinner is served!Deep fried & regular roasted turkey with all the fixing... another feast.  There are so many people there they are spread out over several rooms. Chris, Ben, Pat & I decide to eat out on the screened porch in the warm sun gazing out past the Live Oaks & the Saw Grass-lined shore of the ICW.  I remind myself that we will to be cruising down that waterway tomorrow or the next day. 1730 - We thank David Sr. & Shelby for their hospitality, as well as Bridget & David Jr. for inviting us to share in their Thanksgiving.  Ben & Chris say their goodbyes to the family & we head back to Charleston. 1900 - Arrive back at the boat. Ben & Chris come aboard to share a glass of wine & spend some time with us reviewing some of the digitized pictures of our trip on our laptop computer. 2100 - Ben & Chris have to leave.  They have a long drive ahead of them & need to rest; they are starting back to Indiana tomorrow afternoon. 2130 - Hit the sack.
 

11-25-05 (Fri.), Slip, City Marina, Ashley River, Charleston, SC,  ICW M469.3:
0630 - Up & coffee. BP 30.75, Temp 65 F. Clear & sunny.  Clean up and organize the boat while waiting for the electrician. I hope that the electrical problem is nothing serious or we could be here several days for repairs. 1230 - Electrician telephones.  He's in the marina and trying to find our boat.  I give him instructions and he is there within 5 minutes. I explain the history of our electrical system problem.  He looks over the setup, and the electrical diagrams then he pulls out his testing equipment. He first wants to check the regulator and ask me be to go on deck and turn on the ignition key. He checks the regulator and then has me start the motor. He has isolated the problem within 15 minutes!  It appears to be the regulator. It is receiving electricity from the battery but not sending electricity to the alternator via its field wire.  Therefore the field electromagnets in the alternator are not being magnetized. Thus, no current is produced when the alternator's armature turns.  It appears I am going to have to replace the regulator which is still under warranty.  I asked the electrician how much I owed him. He said, "Nothing"!  I could not believe it. He explained that he was in the marina on another job anyway and the diagnosis on Weal Sea wasn't a big deal.  He wouldn't even accept a beer.  Another example of "southern hospitality".

Pat and I discussed the situation.  It was a nice day and still early. If we left now we could get a few more miles under our belts. Neither of us really wanted to spend another night in a marina. I walked up to the marina office and asked them when checkout time was. They said 1400 hr.  It was only 1330! I told them we would be leaving.  We telephoned Chris and Ben and explained the outcome of the electrician's check of our boat. They were going to try to see us before they left.  However, since we want to get started early, they said "go for it"... we would see each other again at Christmas.

1400 - We took on diesel and departed.  Exiting the marina we head south down the Ashley River about 1.25 miles to Wappoo Creek then turn west into the creek.  The creek and its associated Elliot Cut are about 2 miles long and connect the Ashley and Stono Rivers.  We enter the Stono River and continue west towards its junction with Church Creek. 1645 - Arrive at mouth of Church Creek (ICW M 488.2) and turn to port (east). Enter the creek and drop anchor at N 32.42.50, W 80.10.35.  We've put on another 18 miles.

It's still early in Washington on the west coast.  I telephone Xantrex in Washington and talk to the technician (Randy Johnson) whom I had spoken to before about the regulator. I explained the electrician's findings and he gave me a Return Authorization Number.  He would forward me a replacement regulator when we decided where we would be putting up the boat.  In the mean time, I would try to find time to reinstall our old alternator with the internal regulator. I run the Honda genset to recharge the batteries and we relax over a glass of Red Snagria with our dinner before hitting the sack.
 

11-27-05 (Sun.), Anchorage (N 32.21.97, W 80.38.76), Cowen Creek, SC, ICW M 544.5:
0630 - Up & coffee. BP 30.45, Temp 68 F.  Clear & sunny. 0730 - Weigh anchor & depart. It's another pleasant day.  Leaving Cowen Creek we re-enter & follow the Beaufort River a short distance to where it empties into Port Royal Sound. The current here is not bad & we cross it easily. We then enter Skull Creek (ICW M 552) which separates Hilton Head Island on it's east bank from Pinckney Island on it's west bank. This is a relatively short creek which, together with Mackay Creek & the May River merge & empty into Calibogue Sound at M 560. Continuing south 5 miles we follow a series of short (1-2 mile long) twisting interconnected creeks, rivers & cuts.

1130 - Because of shoaling, the ICW "channel" narrows to only 20-30 ft at Green Day Marker 39 where Ramshorn Creek joins up with the larger New River (ICW M 570).  Our past experience has taught us not to get too close the Day Markers. So, naturally, we give G 39 wide berth keeping it on our port side - BIG mistake! This rule-of-thumb worked in straight segments of the ICW where there is no "merging of waterways".  However, its low tide & there has been additional shoaling on the starboard side of the channel where Ramshorn Creek joins with New River. I spot the VERY RAPID thinning of water on the depth meter but not soon enough... we run aground (again)!  I try motoring off but to no avail.  I toss out the small ("lunch") Danforth anchor to keep us from going further aground in the current.  Fortunately it's a bright, sunny & warm day. I check the chart plotter's Tide Tables. Low tide is at 1126.  Good news; we lucked out!  It's now 1130 & the tide will soon start to rise 2-3 feet.  So, I decide to relax on the fore deck with a cup of coffee. Hey what's the rush!  Two other boats, both Canadian snowbirds, headed south like ourselves, approach us from the north.  I stand on the fore deck & wave directing them to keep to the Green side of the channel. As they pass by I explain that we are aground.  They ask if they can give assistance.  We thank them but explain we are fine & are waiting for the tide to rise. After finishing my coffee, I decide to try kedging again by tossing the small Danforth off the bow & pulling the bow to face upstream toward the deeper part of the channel.  As a power boat passes, I use my handheld VHF to ask him to move by FAST hoping his wake will break us free.  He complies but it does no good. I continue kedging and gradually the bow swings from 160 degrees (~ SSE) to about 45 degree from directly up stream (~ north)... & the boat now seems to be swaying a bit... RISING TIDE!  I rush to the cockpit & start the motor.  Pat takes the helm & I explain to her the direction we want to go.  I go to the fore deck & gradually pull in the Danforth so we don't over run its rode then signal Pat to increase the throttle.  Suddenly we are FREE & Pat swings the bow down stream... its 1230 hr.  We've only lost about an hour.

Continuing down New River we enter Wright River then Fields Cut which feeds into the Savannah River (ICW M 576). Crossing the Savannah River we "officially leave South Carolina & enter Georgia"!  Almost immediately we leave the Savannah River & enter the narrow Wilmington River which we follow south to where Herb Creek enters it at ICW M 585.  Its only 1530 hr but we've done about 40 miles today. We figure "we deserve a short day occasionally" & decide to drop anchor in a very nice & protected spot in Herb Creek (N 32.00.82, W 81.02.28).

11-28-05 (Mon.) Anchorage, Herb Creek, GA (N 32.00.82, W 81.02.28), ICW M 585:
0610 - Up, coffee, bagel & cheese. BP 30.60, Temp 60 F, Clear & calm. 0730 - Weigh anchor. The sky clouds up but then clears again.  It's a pleasant day and Pat decides to bake a pie using the apples she was given by Jerry in Elizabeth City, VA.  What a great day cruising, especially with the smell of pies baking in the galley below (Pat also made a spicy Mince Meat pie!).

We still have not made arrangements for storing our boat while we go home for Christmas and New Years. Arne & Bev (s/v Scandia) are putting their boat on a mooring near Vero Beach, FL. We telephone several marinas and discover most are filled up or charge large fees.  Those near Miami, for example, want as much as $40 / ft for a month's storage!  We continue to check Skipper Bob's book on marinas along the ICW and telephone Telemar Bay Marina in Melbourne, FL.  They have a slip available for $12 / ft (plus tax) / month, plus electricity.  We take it and tell them we plan to be there by December 12th.  We also need to pull Weal Sea to redo her bottom paint (we still have "fresh water" VC-17 on her) and replace the zincs on her propeller shaft. We encounter a problem just finding a "Do-It-Yourself" marina.  There are very few DIY marinas left along the ICW in Florida. One non-DIY marina said they would store our boat and do the bottom while we went home for the Holidays.  However, they wanted $1400 just to paint the bottom! No thanks!  We finally discovered "Seven Sea's Marina" in Port Orange, just south of Daytona.  They charge $6 / ft.  This includes both "In & Out" (hauling & re-launching) and jack stands. On-the-hard storage while working on your boat is 55 cents / ft / day. They do not charge you storage for the days they pull your boat or re-launch it. Not bad.  We take it and tell them we will be there on Monday, December 5th.  That will give us a full week to finish the bottom and get to Melbourne to fly home.  However, we still need to arrange for airline tickets.  Pat has been in contact with Susan, our daughter, who has agreed to check online to see what's available.

Continuing south, we catch up with the Canadians we met earlier at Day Marker 39 where we ran aground.  They are just entering Hell Gate Cut at ICW M 602 between the Little Ogeechee and Ogeechee Rivers. This is a very shallow & narrow cut mentioned in Skipper Bob's book.  One of the Canadian boats owned by a couple from Croatia, a 40-footer, goes aground. We offer advice but really can't do much for them since we even bumped bottom while entering the cut. After clearing the cut, we offer to standby.  However, Wayne & Gerry (s/v Intuition) from Nova Scotia, tell us they will wait for their buddy boat and for us to go on. 1530 - We arrive at Whoo River (ICW M  630) and move up the river about 2 miles where we drop anchor on the S side of Wahoo Island (N31.36.16, W 81.12.85) in 15 feet of water. 1545 hr  - Coming up the river we see the 2 Canadian boats.  They anchor near us on the S side of the island.  The wind is out of the west and builds during the night; Weal Sea strains at her anchor but I feel comfortable with 80 feet of rode.  The Croatian couple in the 40-footer spend most of the evening checking their anchor.  They finally move their boat out in the channel further away from the island.

11-29-05 (Tue.) - Anchorage, Wahoo River, GA (N 31.36.16, W 81.12.85), ICW M 630:
0615 Up, coffee & cheese, No Bagel - we're out!  BP 30.50, Temp 68 F, Clear, sunny & calm. Its been windy all night. 0730 - Weigh anchor.  The Canadians weigh anchor & are right behind us. We enter Sapelo Sound at ICW M 631, turn to starboard (W) & follow it "upstream".  Wind has now come up out of N & we pop open our head sail. (The following segment of the ICW had NUMEROUS ranges which you must use or run the risk of running aground). At M 638 we furl-in the head sail & turn SW to enter the narrow Front River. We continue to follow it to Old Teakettle Creek (M 643) which junctions with Doboy Sound at ICW M 649.  We follow this SE only about a mile then turn to port (SW) to enter the North River for another mile & then the Little Mud River (ICW 651). This is a narrow dredged "river" with a number of 'ranges'. It eventually empties into Altamaha River at ICW M 655 where you turn to port to follow the Little Mud River Range B about a mile, then make an "acute" ~135 degree turn to starboard to follow another range west up the river to enter Buttermilk Sound @ ICW M 660.  The Buttermilk junctions with the Mackay River & there are a few more ranges to watch. The Mackay, which empties into St. Simons Sound at ICW 675, separates the well known tourists' destinations of St. Simons Island & Jekyll Island.  We enter the Sound & turn starboard at Red 20 & sail up the Sound to the town of Brunswick, GA.

1530 hr -We considered anchoring out at Jekyll Island but we need to re-supply.  Therefore we radio Brunswick Landing Marina & arranged to take a slip (N 31.09.15, W 81.29.97).  Good decision; it's a great marina with excellent facilities &, it's run entirely by ladies!  We fuel up then tie-up in our slip. Our Canadian colleagues, who have been with us since we ran aground at Green Day Marker 39, are about an hour behind us. They have also decided to take slips here.  It's a warm clear afternoon - 75 F!  1800 hr - Wayne & Gerry (s/v Intuition) have decided to eat out at a local "Irish Pub" & asked us to join them.  The Croatian couple has had some mechanical problems with their boat & have decided stay on board & work on them. 2100 hr - Return to boat & hit the sack.

11-30-05 (Wed.) - Slip, Brunswick Landing Marina, Brunswick, GA (N 31.09.15, W 81.29.97), ICW M 680: 
0830 - Up & Breakfast. We had previously decided to stay here at least one day to re-supply.  Besides, Chris & Ben Holland, & Sue & Simon Kenyon, who had visited Brunswick in the past, were very impressed with the town & have even talked about moving here after retiring. We do some shopping & laundry.  Pat then does a bit of exploring of the town while I remove the "new" (rebuilt) 100 amp alternator & the new Xantrex external regulator & replaced them with the "old" 50 amp regulator with the internal regulator... IT WORKS!  We now will be able to charge our batteries while underway & won't have to be running the generator while at anchor in the evenings. 2000 - hit the sack.

Pat & Dan Harrington
s/v Weal Sea

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