January 2006

01-05-06 (Thur), West Lafayette, IN:
0730 hr.- Up, Coffee, cheese & bagel. Temp. 45 F.  Didn't get to bed until 0230 this morning packing and sending out emails containing the www.earth.google.com satellite photo file I created showing all places we stopped at during our trip from Hammond, IN (7-10-05) to Melbourne, FL (12-12-05).   (NOTE: If you didn't receive a copy of this Earth Goggle file, you can download it from the CLR Marine website which is also posting Weal Sea's Log.  Their web address is:  www.clrmarine.com/210.html)

0845 - Completed final packing and loaded luggage into the Jeep Cherokee. 0900 - Mike, our son, arrived to take us to the Indianapolis Airport. Road (I-65) somewhat congested at spots north of Indy and on I-465 on east side of the city to the airport. 1045 - Arrive airport. Mike drops us off at the Delta entrance and we check luggage at the door... very fast. Our plane departs at 1200 so we still had time to grab a sandwich at the food court. 1145 - Board plane and we depart at 1200, right on time. Fly to Atlanta where we change planes. Arrive Melbourne at 1730 hr. on time. Temp. ~73 F & clear! What a change. Take shuttle back to  Weal Sea (~ 20 minute ride). She's intact and looks good.  However, discovered I had left the holding tank thru-hull OPEN when we had our holding tank pumped out at the marina before we left.  The tank was full of sea water! Thank goodness our tank hoses were in excellent condition and double clamped. Tired but still did a small amount of unpacking!
 . 2100 - hit the sack.

01-06-06 (Fri.), slip, Telemar Bay Marina, Melbourne, FL:
0730 - Up, coffee, cheese & bagel (same routine!). Clear but cool, Temp 45 F. BP 30.10. Removed Bimini window covers & removed fuel & water storage Jerry containers from cockpit back on to the deck. Unpacked luggage. 1130 - Walked 1.5 mi. to grocery store. While walking back received cell phone call from Evelyn & Kevin Kazacos. They were in Melbourne, FL and decided to stop in to see us. Met them at our boat in Telemar Bay Marina ~1330. We had a great visit.  Kevin gave us some frozen fish he had caught earlier in the week. 1630 - Kevin & Evelyn had to leave to head back to Orlando where Kevin was giving a scientific paper at a veterinary conference. It was really great seeing them both. 2200 - Hit the sack.

01-07-06 (Sat.), Slip, Telemar Bay Marina, Melbourne, FL:
0830 - Up, BP 30.20, Temp 60. Overcast - Spent day organizing boat. Water valve handle for stern water tank broke.  Will have to repair when we get to Vero Beach. Transferred 10 gal diesel from on deck storage Jerry cans to fuel tank in preparation for tomorrows departure for Vero Beach. Checked with dockmaster and informed them we would be departing tomorrow.
2130 - hit the sack.

01-08-06 (Sun.), Slip, Telemar Bay Marina, Melbourne, FL:
0800 - Up, BP 30.35, Temp 50 F, Clear. 1000 - Departed. Very smooth trip. We are seeing more and more dolphins along the way.  Also saw our first manatee (a pair) today. 1500 - Arrive at Vero Beach fixed bridge at ICW M 951.8. You must make 90 degree turn to port between bridge and channel makers to enter the Vero Beach Municipal Marina anchorage behind a small island.  This is a very protected and POPULAR anchorage. (Boaters nicknamed "Velcro Beach" since people who come here often "stick" / remain here.) They have slips but most boats are on mooring balls. This time of year boats have to raft-up with maximum of 3 boats per mooring ball. You check-in at dockmasters office where you are assigned a mooring ball. They normally raft sailboats with sailboats and powerboats / trawlers with powerboats / trawlers. The cost is $10.75 per night regardless of boat size. Use of toilets & showers is $1.25/day/person.

1515 - Pulled up to dock, filled diesel tank and was assigned mooring ball 48 (N 27.39.751, W 80.22.350) directly across from Bev & Arne (s/v Scandia) on mooring 49. We are sharing a mooring ball with a 50 ft schooner s/v Tranquility owned by Lee and Cindy Smith; very nice people. 1800 - Bev and Arne dinghy over and we a great evening. 2150 - hit the sack. 

01-09-06 (Mon.), Mooring, Vero Beach Municipal Marina, Vero Beach, FL (N 27.39.751, W 80.22.350), ICW M 951.8:
0600 - Up, Coffee, cheese (Cobot Seriously Sharp Cheddar) & coffee. BP 30.35, clear, Temp 50 F. 0900 - dinghy to shore and take bus to town. Municipal bus service into the city from the marina, which runs on the hour, is free and stops at all the popular places - West Marine, Wal-Mart, Publix and WinDixie (groceries), Lowe's, Home Depot, Apple Bees etc., etc... almost anything you need. Lee & Cindy (s/v Tranquility), our mooring neighbor's, had rented a car and volunteered to take our spare propane tank to town for a refill while we took the bus (not allowed to take propane tanks on the bus). 1600 - return from shopping. 1700 - dinner on the boat.

1830 - Arne & Bev have invited us over. Met Jerry & Barbara (s/v Kumbaya) who are sharing a mooring ball with s/v Scandia. Bev and Arne knew them from their previous sail to the Bahamas.  Bev and Arne have been in Vero Beach since before Christmas. Bev has been waiting for her Canadian passport to be renewed and she has learned that she may not get it back until the middle of Febuary! She and Arne suggested we continue on without them and they will meet us in Georgetown in the Exumas. We would prefer to cross with them. However, many boats cross the Gulf Stream together and its not difficult to join one of the groups. It's a matter of waiting for the right "weather window". However, boats have been known to have to wait a month for the correct weather conditions.  2130 - return to Weal Sea and hit the sack.

01-10-06 (Tue.), Mooring, Vero Beach Municipal Marina, Vero Beach, FL (N 27.39.751, W 80.22.350), ICW M 951.8:
0730 - Up, coffee, cheese and 1/2 bagel. 1000 - Took bus into town again for more shopping. We are stocking up for the trip. Pat heads for Publix (more groceries) while I check out West Marine and a Diver Shop.  Purchase a new face mask and a set of diving fins. Return to Publix and help Pat with the groceries. Return to marina and spend rest of day working around the boat and socializing with our neighbors. 2100 - Hit the sack.

01-11-06 (Wed.), Mooring, Vero Beach Municipal Marina, Vero Beach, FL (N 27.39.751, W 80.22.350), ICW M 951.8:
0700 - Up - Coffee ONLY! BP 30.30, Temp 68, Clear. Many of the boaters here have a tradition of having breakfast together at the "2002 Restaurant". We all gather at the marina office and "pack" the small bus. The restaurant reserves a room just for the boaters. Meals are very reasonably priced (we sail boaters are known to be cheap!) and good. 1000 - The restaurant is "conveniently located" just across the road from WEST MARINE! Naturally many of us head there after breakfast. Pat went grocery shopping again with some of the ladies and will take the bus back to the marina with them. I visited "WM" to order some charts from the Bahamas. Also went to Home Depot and Lowe's to pick some hardware for the boat as well as a plastic bucket, silicone sealer and Plexiglas to make a "underwater viewer" which allows you to check the anchor from the dinghy to see if it is "set". 1600 - Return to boat. Pat and ladies went walking on the beach. I try to fix broken water valve handle. No luck. Fortunately it the stern tank. I am able to get it turn to the open position with a wrench.  This will allow us to continue to use the tank until I replace  valve. 2100 - Hit the sack

01-12-06 (Thur.), Mooring, Vero Beach Municipal Marina, Vero Beach, FL (N 27.39.751, W 80.22.350), ICW M 951.8:
0700 - Up - Coffee, cheese and bagel. BP 30.10, Temp 65 F, clear. 1000 - Pat did laundry at marina office while I work on boat. 1200 - I need to go up the mast to check the anchor light and  straighten the Windex (Wind direction indicator) which was bent when I hit a tree in the Dismal Swap before Thanksgiving! Lee (s/v Tranquility) operate our electric anchor winch to hoist me up the mast using a head sail halyard while the 2 "wenches", Pat and Cindy, operate a manual "winch" controlling the main sail halyard which I use as a safety line. It was an experience! I not had to go up the mast before. The anchor light was undamaged and I was able to straighten the Windex. !400 - We have been invited over for coffee and tea by Goran and Gee (s/v Pepa II), the Croatian couple (now from Canada) who we met on the ICW before Christmas. 1630 - Returned to Weal Sea. 2200 - Hit the sack.

01-13-06 (Sat.), Mooring ball, Vero Beach Municipal Marina, Vero Beach, FL,(N 27.39.751, W 80.22.350), ICW M 951.8: 0730 - Up, coffee & bagel. BP 30.03, temp 65, clear.  1000 - Pat took bus to Publix to purchase groceries and pick up the Monty & Sara Lewis "Explore Charts & Cruising Guide" of the Exumas. I also need the Explore "Near" and "Far" Bahamas charts but they don't have them at the Vero Beach West Marine.  Will need to get them in Ft. Lauderdale if possible. 1130 - continue to work on the alternator but still cannot get the "new" one to work with the new external regulator. Old one still works so will use it until I can get new one checked somewhere along the way. 2100 - Weather forecast call for a cold front to move through tonight with winds of 30-40 knots. Hit the sack.

01-14-06 (Fri.), mooring ball, Vero Beach Municipal Marina, Vero Beach FL. (N 27.39.751, W 80.22.350), ICW M 951.8:
0300 - Up. Winds are VERY heavy and I check to lines. OK. 0400 - Winds continue to blow. Check the line again. OK. 0630 - Up, coffee, cheese and bagel. BP 29.90, temp 50 F!, clear. Still windy. 1000 - took bus to town to pick mushroom anchors for the dinghy and for making a "kellet" (a weight use to hold down the rope rode at the end of the anchor chain rode so the chain does not lift up and free itself from the bottom.) 1300 - return to boat. Talked to Arne & Bev.  Bev has still not received her passport and it looks like they are going to be here another week or so. 2130 - Wind has started to die down.  Hit the sack.

01-15-06 (Sun.), Mooring ball, Vero Beach Municipal Marina, Vero Beach FL. (N 27.39.751, W 80.22.350), ICW M 951.8:
0730 - Up, the usual breakfast. BP 30.05, Temp 50, clear, near calm. 1000 - Laundry. Work around boat. Its a very nice place here BUT we really want to get going. They have reported that 30 or more boats have gathered at Miami Beach ICW getting ready to cross when a weather window opens, possible then end of next week! Spoke to Jerry & Barbara (s/v Kumbaya) today and they are leaving for Hobe Harbor tomorrow. They have crossed the Gulf stream to the Bahamas several times and said we are follow them if we like. 1730 - Bev and Arne invite us over to visit them with Jerry & Barbara who are rafted up with them. We dinghy over and discuss the situation. Bev is not sure when her passport will arrive. She and Arne urge us to continue south with Jerry & Barbara. They will see us later in the Bahamas. We decide to go for it. 2100 - return to boat and hit the sack.

01-16-06 (Mon.), Mooring ball, Vero Beach Municipal Marina, Vero Beach, FL, (N 27.39.751, W 80.22.350), ICW M 951.8:
0600 - Up, "spiced tea" (out of coffee!), cheese & bagel. BP 30.05, temp 60, clear. Cleared deck and got outboard motor off dinghy and onto the stern pulpit motor mount. 0800 - weigh anchor and go to fuel dock to take on water and diesel and to fill gasoline Jerry storage containers on deck (we use gasoline for the outboard motor and Honda 2000 Generator). Jerry & Barbara also left mooring at 0800. We radio them to go on and we will catch them later. 0830 - depart fuel dock and head down ICW. We have a 5-15 kt  head wind out of the S.  We can see Jerry & Barbara 2-3 miles ahead of us. Very nice day; Temp gets up to 70. Catch up to s/v Kumbaya about 3 miles before reaching Hobe Sound, a wide area in the ICW. 1345 - drop anchor in 8 feet water (N27.01.986, W80.06.448), ICW M 998. (We would have gone further but Kumbaya draws 6 feet and there were no anchorages where she could anchor before Lake Worth. Telephoned Bev & Arne and told them of our progress. 2030 - Hit the sack.

01-17-06 (Tue.), Anchorage, Hobe Sound, Jupiter Island, ICW M 998:
0600 - Up, breakfast. BP 30.05, Temp 65, partly cloudy, S wind 20-25 knots with white caps. Wind on the nose again today! 0800 - Radio Kumbaya. They plan to depart ~45 minutes. 0845 - Weigh anchor. Difficult to do because of winds but we use the motor to break it free. LOTS of Bridges today.. 19! First 3 on request, remainder are "restricted" (open at specific times, e.g. on the hour and half hour, or quarter after and quarter to the hour. You need to time yourself between them. Usually need to do 6 knots SOG ("Speed Over Ground") to make the openings.  However, it will be tough today because of the S wind on the nose and the currents are against us. 1215 - We make it through the bridges and anchor at the north end of Lake Worth, North Palm Beach, FL among 30 other boats in 16 ft of water (N26.50.355, W80.03.355), ICW M 1014. 

(NOTE: Lake Worth is a common anchorage for boats waiting for a weather window to cross the Gulf Stream to West End or Freeport on Grand Bahamas Island. Grand Bahama is in the "Near (Northern) Bahamas" which include Abacos Island where Marsh Harbor is located; we plan to visit this group of islands on our return trip north.)

Its still windy with low white caps on the lake because of the open water to the south; this long  "reach" allows the wave to build. We put out 150 ft of rode: 50 ft chain and 100 ft rope. Its going to be a rough night. 2030 - Hit the sack.

01-18-06 (Wed.), Anchorage, Lake Worth, North Palm Beach, FL. (N26.50.355, W80.03.355), ICW M 1014.:
0700 - Up and breakfast. Radio Kumbaya. They have decided to stay here for another day or so. However, they have been listening to Chris Parker's Bahamian weather forecast and it appears there will be a narrow window for crossing the Gulf Stream Monday or Tuesday of next week (Jan. 23-24)! Pat & I decide to go on south. We'll meet up with Kumbaya later. 0930 - weigh anchor. Lots of bridges again today. Slow progress but we want to make Ft. Lauderdale this evening. 1400 - We telephone Las Olas Municipal Marina (Ft. Lauderdale) for reservations only to discover that all their mooring balls are taken.  We'll have to continue down the ICW another mile to Lake Sylvia. 1815 - Arrive Lake Sylvia. Its getting dark but we are able to anchor in 8 ft water (N26.06.214, W80.06.688), ICW M 1065).  This is a very popular and protected anchorage right down town in Ft. Lauderdale near "The Beaches".  There are already 15 boats anchored when we arrive. 2200 - hit the sack.

 

01-19-06 (Thur.), Anchorage, Lake Sylvia, Ft. Lauderdale, FL (N26.06.214, W80.06.688), ICW M 1065:
0700 - Up & breakfast. BP 30.01, temp 70, clear. 0800 - Telephone Las Olas Municipal Marina. They have 2 mooring balls available. However, since its first come-first serve, they cannot hold one for us. 0825 - We decide to weigh anchor and head back up the ICW 1 mile to the mooring field. The municipal marina has 10 mooring balls on the west side of the ICW just south and immediately adjacent to the Las Olas Blvd. bridge. The marina itself, which also has slips, is on the opposite side of the ICW at the base of the Las Olas Blvd. bridge. There are still 2 mooring balls available when we arrive and we take one (N26.07.171, W80.06.615).
 
Cost of a mooring ball is $30/day regardless of the size of your boat. This fee includes free use of the dinghy dock, showers and toilets. Very nice pay washers & dryers  The marina is exceptionally clean and modern. 

(Note: The marina is located just 2 blocks from the Ft. Lauderdale beach and the "Elbow Room" bar, both made famous by the 60's movie "Where the Boys Are". This brings back memories; I and 3 other buddies were here during Spring Break from Michigan State University in 1960 (2nd year, veterinary medical school)! I remember walking down to the ICW and looking at the "yachts". If someone had said I would be here on a sailboat 46 years later, I would have said their were out of their mind. I only wish my buddies were here to share this moment with me).

There is excellent bus service from the marina to the stores; $0.50/trip or $1.25 for an "all-day" pass. Ft. Lauderdale has the largest West Marine store in the US.  Also a new Boaters World, Blue Water Charts & Books Store, Sailormans Store (new and used boating equipment), Sailors Warehouse, and much more.

1000 - We  register at the Marina and take the bus into Publix for groceries and to check out Blue Water Charts. However, Blue Water Charts has had "a run on" the Near & Far Bahamas Explorer Charts (all those Bahamas-bound sailors got here before us).  However, they have copies in their warehouse and will have a set put aside for us to pick up tomorrow! Eat lunch at a small restaurant then take bus back to marina. 1400 - telephone Bev and Arne. Good News! Bev's Passport has arrived! They are planning on heading south tomorrow and will see us on Saturday! Because we still have alot to do, we decide to rent a car for shopping. We telephone Enterprise and get one of their 3-day Weekend Specials for $51! They will deliver it tomorrow. 2200 - hit the sack.

01-20-06 (Fri.), Mooring, Las Olas Municipal Marina, Ft. Lauderdale, FL (N26.07.171, W80.06.615), ICW M 1064: 0700 - Up & breakfast. 1000 - Take Pat to Marina laundry. Enterprise picks me up and takes me to office to pick up rental car. Go to Blue Water Charts and pick up our Bahamas Explore Charts. Check out Sailormans and buy another 50 ft of Accor 5/16" High-Test (G-4) chain for our other anchor. Return to boats and pick up Pat to do grocery shopping. Receive telephone call from VISA fraud department. Appears our VISA card number has been used by someone else and they have to block further usage! PANIC... We now we are suppose to leave for the Bahamas on on Tuesday. VISA promises to send us an emergency replacement card overnight special delivery to arrive tomorrow morning. Fortunately, we have a back-up card which we can use to purchase groceries and other supplies today. 2200 - hit the sack.

01-21-06 (Sat.), Mooring, Las Olas Municipal Marina, Ft. Lauderdale, FL (N26.07.171, W80.06.615), ICW M 1064:
0600 - Up and breakfast. VISA card is to be delivered between 0800 and 1000. Dinghy to marina office. No delivery by 0900 but marina manager agrees to sign for the UPS package containing the card and hold it for us. I have brought the "new" (external regulated) alternator ashore with me and take it to a local alternator shop where they test it. It is bad. Telephone DB Electric in Tennessee where we purchased it. They say they will replace it but can't get a replacement to us until Thursday. That's too late; we now know we will be crossing to the Bahamas from Ft. Lauderdale on Tuesday! We decide to have replacement alternator shipped to our daughter in Pittsburg. She will hold it for us. I must have a back-up and decide to bit the bullet and purchase a new one with an internal regulator ($175).  Back on boat, install it; it works.

New VISA card also arrived while I was alternator shopping so we are back in business. 2100 - hit the sack.

01-22-06 (Sun.), Mooring, Las Olas Municipal Marina, Ft. Lauderdale, FL (N26.07.171, W80.06.615), ICW 1064:
0700 - Up and breakfast. Spend day picking up provisions and preparing boat for the crossing. Bev and Anne arrive but can't get a mooring ball at Las Olas Municipal Marina. They anchor at Lake Sylvia with another boat they have been traveling with; Jim (s/v Blossom II). We also hear that Lee and Cindy Smith (s/v Tranquility), with whom we shared a mooring ball in Vero Breach, are also planning to cross from Ft. Lauderdale with us. (NOTE: The group has decided to cross to Nassau directly from Ft. Lauderdale rather than travel south to Miami.  Its a bit longer distance wise but its saves us traveling further south on the ICW.) 2100 - Hit the sack.

01-23-06 (Mon.), Mooring, Las Olas Municipal Marina, Ft. Lauderdale, FL (N26.07.171, W80.06.615), ICW M 1064:
0600 - Up &  breakfast. BP 30.10, Temp 68, clear. 0900 - Telephone Jerry & Babara (s/v Kumbaya). Explain that we are going to cross with Arne & Bev (s/v Scandia), Lee & Cindy (s/v Tranquility) & Jim (s/v Blossom II) directly from Ft. Lauderdale to the Bahamian Banks leaving at 0500 tomorrow morning (Tuesday, Jan. 24). Jerry wishes us good luck. (Jim & Barbara are crossing from Miami out of Government Cut. There are 48 sailboats in Miami waiting to go! Some have been waiting for 3 or 4 weeks for a weather window.  Everyone there is "excitied" and zipping back & forth between boats & making last-minute arrangements. For most (~60%), this will be the first crossing... "newbies" like our selves. They will depart about 0800 hr & head east across the Gulf Stream for North Rock (N25.48.20, W79.15.50) 44.7 nm from Miami and just north of Bimini. We will head east for the Hen & Chickens islands (N26.00.60, W79.06.50) 52.7 nm from Ft. Lauderdale / Port Everglades cut. The Hen & Chickens are about 12 nm north of North Rock and is on the eastern edge of the Great Bahamas Bank.)

I send the old alternator back to DB Electric via UPS at an Office Max. Pat & I do last minute grocery shopping. It seems like we never stop shopping. However, we will be gone for over 4 months & know that meats, etc can be expensive in the Bahamas.  Not sure where we will store everything yet! The dinghy is really LOADED when we return from shopping at 1900. Pat stays on Weal Sea to put supplies away while I dinghy back to shore. I need to return the rental car and get a taxi back to the marina.  (I must admit I am getting a bit nervous... I can't believe we are really going to be crossing the Gulf Steam in just 11 hours! Second thought? Absolutely not.)  2100 - drop off car & return to marina via taxi. Pat helps me get outboard motor off dinghy and we use the extra jib halyard to lift dinghy out of water and on to the foredeck. Continue to pack. Pat hits the sack about 2400 but I stay up working another hour... not sure I can sleep I am so excited and nervous. Set 2 alarms for 0400; will meet Scandia, Tranquility and Blossom II at 0520. (Actually could not sleep and got up and sent an Weal Sea's Log email out at 1:52 AM... you all should have gotten this before now).
 

01-24-06 (Tue.), Anchorage-mooring ball, Las Olas Municipal Marina, Ft. Lauderdale, FL:
0152 hr - It's GO! A weather window has opened and we depart at 0500 hr this morning. Expect to cross Gulf Stream to Hens & Chicken (N26.00.60,W79.06.50) north of Bimini (52.7 nm from Ft. Lauderdale) in about 10 hr. Then to Mackie Shoal (N25.41.00, W78.39.00), then NW Channel (25.28.20, W78.09.60), and finally Nassau (N25.05.35, W77.21.34) where we check-in. Time required est. 32 hr non-stop. We will be crossing with Scandia (Arne & Bev) and another boat. Wish us luck!

01-24-06 (Tue.), Anchorage-mooring ball, Las Olas Municipal Marina, Ft. Lauderdale, FL: 0400 hr - Up & LOTS of coffee. BP 30.15, Temp 70 F, clear... beautiful morning! I slept very little last night. Just too excited. 0430 - Telephone Arne & Bev.  It's a GO! They are only 1 mile downstream on the ICW at Lake Sylvia anchored with Blossom II. We will pick up Tranquility about 2 miles further south at the Port Everglades bridge cut where we exit into the Gulf Stream.  However, Blossom II is having running light problems. Thus, Scandia will lead down the ICW to the Port Everglades cut bridge with Blossom II following them. Weal Sea will follow Blossom II and act as her stern light.  We will pick up Tranquility at the bridge. 0445 - Let go mooring ball lines and head down ICW. Pick up Sacandia & Blossom II & meet Tranquility at the Port Everglades bridge about 0545. Head out into the Ocean. Wind is out of SE at 10 kts. Lots of swells in the cut but almost no waves.  0706 - Sunrise. ! Swells down to 1-2 ft, warm, clear. Looking behind we can still see Ft. Lauderdale. We are the only 4 sailboats in sight but there are a few freighters off in the distance. GREAT day! Could not be better.

Destination and waypoints: (1) Depart Port Everglades (N26.05.50, W80.04.80), cross Gulf Stream (depth 450-800 meters), 52.7 nm to => (2) Hen & Chickens (N26.00.60, W79.06.50), enter Great Bahama Bank (depth ONLY 7-8 meters), 31.6 nm to => (3) Mackie Shoal (N25.41.00, W78.39.00), 25.2 nm to => (4) NW Shoal (N25.30.00, W78.13.95), 4.2 nm to => (5) NW Channel Light (N25.28.20, W78.09.60), LEAVE Great Bahama Banks and enter "Tongue of the Ocean" /  "NW Providence Channel", 49.3 nm to => (6) Nassau, New Providence Island (N25.05.35, W77.21.34)

1440 - Sight "Great Isaac Island Light" north of the Hen & Chickens Islands! - We did it. We are in the BAHAMAS! Our depth meter has not been able to read depth for the last 45 miles. Suddenly the water depth decreases, changes color and we read 56 ft!  1500 - All 4 boats raise their yellow "Q" (Quarantine) flags as we cross south of the light house between Great Isaac Island & the smaller Hen & Chickens. Blossom II radios Tranquility and Weal Sea and congratulates us on our "First Crossing." It absolutely clear and sunny, 75 F and the winds are WARM and out of the S. The water on the bank is so clear you can see starfish on the bottom. All the boats raise their main sails & we continue to motorsail @ ~ 6 kts. 1560 - add 6 gal diesel from Jerry can. Water is now like glass but we still have a nice S-SW breeze & make 5.5-7 kts. Sunset is fantastic on the banks. Pat & I trade off sleeping and taking the helm. Pat had done fantastic! She is such a trooper. All kind of sailboats lights in distance now.  Lots of radio chatter between the boats in the group that left Miami earlier today. We have actually caught and past them. They know our boat names and we check in them giving them our position every hour.  They also warm the Bahama fleet of freighters that might be in the channels. 2255 - Add 5 more gal diesel. 2345 - Make NW Shoal waypoint (N25.30.00, W78.13.95). We've done 110 nm since we left. Keep in mind that we had a 2-3 knt Gulf Steam current pushing us N or we would have made better time. 2400 - enter channel between NW Shoal and NW Channel Light.  We travel single file through this narrow channel.  Blossom has done this trip about 7 times & leads the way. (Note - Jim on Blossom is Single-handing the boat! His wife will meet him later in the Bahamas)

01-25-06 (Wed.), under sail, "Tongue of the Ocean" / NW Providence Channel, The Bahamas! (N25.28.20, W78.09.06): 0030 - Pass NW Channel Light and enter Tongue of the Ocean. Channel depth was about 11.5 feet (3-4 meters) much of the way. All the other boats in our group draw more than 6 ft and had to stay in the middle of the channel. We draw about 4.5 ft and were comfortable but NOT careless!.. Single file: Blossom II, Tranquility, Weal Sea, and Scandia. Scandia has had some problems with her oil pressure gauge. Arne is not too concerned and believes its the sending unit. Will continue on the Nassau motor-sailing.  Depth of water begins to increase very rapidly as we leave the Great Bahama Bank and enter the NW Providence Cannel and "Tongue of the Ocean" itself: 324 meters (m) @ 2 nm off the Bank => 850 m meters @ 9 nm => 1650 m @ 11 nm => 3018 m @ 25 nm off the Bank -- That's 9,960 feet.. pretty deep!  Pat & I have been trading off turns at the helm. I sleep in the cockpit when she is on watch to be available if she feels she needs help. She sleeps in the V-berth when off watch. When at the helm, she uses the autohelm and follows Tranquility (a 50 ft sailboat) which has a very distinctive stern light profile; Very easy to spot and follow. 0500 - I am really getting tired and ask Pat up to take over. I usually take the helm for 2-3 hours and sleep for 1-2 hr. Pat takes over and I am OUT!

0800 - I wake up. I've been asleep for 3 hrs. Pat knew I was exhausted and decided to let me sleep. The sky is clear and sun is bright as we head east. I look forward and DON'T SEE ANY BOATS in front of us! "Where are all the other boats," I ask? "They are right behind us," Pat answers. She had past them all during the early moring hours and she was now leading the entire pack of about 10 sailboats to Nassau! WHAT A WOMAN! I am so proud of her, and I know she feels a sense of accomplishment as well. 0900 - approach Nassau harbor. We ask Scandia to lead the way since they have been here before and know the harbor. We had telephoned the Nassau Yacht Haven yesterday morning when we were just off Ft. Lauderdale & made reservations.

As you approach the harbor, you MUST radio in to Nassau Harbor Control on VHF 16 and get permission to enter the harbor. They want to know the name of your boat, its documentation number, and where you will be staying. They were very courteous and gave us permission to enter. 0915 - Drop main sail and motor into Nassau Harbor under the fixed bridge between Nassau itself and Paradise Island. Its about 2 nm from the east entrance of the harbor to Nassau Yacht Haven. Radio into Nassau Yacht Haven and tell them we have arrived, need fuel and require a slip assignment. They are very efficient and courteous. 0930 - Tie up at fuel dock and take on a total of 23.7 gal diesel: 12.7 gal in Weal Sea's onboard tank and 11 gal in the 2 Jerry cans we had used along the way. (Distance traveled was 164 miles from Las Olas Marina to Nassau Yacht Haven: That's about 6.9 nm/gal or 7.95 sm (statue mile)/gal.) We are assigned slip E10 and motor in where a dock man is standing by to help us tie up.

Pat stays on board while I go to the office and pick up the Customs and Immigration forms. 1100 - Fill out customs form in the "laundry room" where the lady customs officer (Petula Black) has set up an office; She does not like to go on boats! She is very pleasant and helpful and even shares one of her lunch cookies with me!) I pay the $150 Bahamas cruising fee for our boat (cash only!, $150 for boats 35 ft and less in length, $300 for boats over 35 ft). The fee included a 6-month cruising permit and fishing license. 1330 - Immigration officer arrives at marina and walks around the docks asking all the  Q-flag boaters to come up to the marina office with their forms. Its a formality... I am done in 2 minutes.. he is in a real hurry to get to the next marina. He stamps and gives Pat & I Passports back, welcomes us to The Bahamas, and tells us we can take down our Q flag and put up our Bahamian Courtesy Flag. ITS OFFICIAL! Not only have we arrived, but we have our cruising permit for up to 6 months. WOW! Pat is exhausted and goes back to the boat to sleep while I check out the marina then wash down the boat with "fresh water" (You pay $10/day for water even if you use none) and fill the water tanks. 

1530 - Pat, Bev and Cindy decide to check-out the local market. Prices are higher but not that bad. The Bahamian Dollar and US Dollar are interchangeable here. 1600 - meet a fellow on the dock who is using Skype VOI (Voice Over Internet) software on his laptop to telephone the States. Cost - 2 cents a minute! I had seen  students in Grenada using this software to call home to England, the States and elsewhere in the world. Its easy to setup. I go back to the boat, pick up my laptop and go back to the marina office where I logon to the WiFi system ($10/24 hr) then download and install the software. Make my first Skype telephone call to the diagnostic laboratory at Purdue and talk to Linda Hendrickson. The reception is remarkable! Make few other calls then return to the boat. 2230 - Hit the sack.


01-26-06 (Thur.), Slip, Nassau Yacht Haven, Nassau, Bahamas (N25.04.514, W77.19.004): 0630 - Up, coffee, cheese & half bagel. BP 30.08, Temp 70, partly cloudy. Spend much of morning cleaning up and organizing boat. 1130 - Sailboaters who have just crossed over are gathering at the Nassau Harbor Yacht Club for lunch. Its a great get-together and we meet many of the boaters whose boat's names we had heard of on the VHF during the crossing. 1245 - Our group decides to walk "downtown" to the harbor where the cruise ships anchor. The ladies want to see the tourist's stores. Pat buys a silver bracelet with an anchor, ships wheel, and other nautical items on it. 1700 - Return to boat. 1730 - Pat and I walk up to the marina office where we get good WiFi (wireless internet) service. Since I have Skype VOI (Voice Over Internet) on my laptop working, Pat telephones Ireland and talks to Ena, her sisiter. Ena is shocked to hear Pat's voice since she did not expect to hear from her by phone for months. It was like talking to someone next door. Pat talked to her for 20 minutes - cost: 40 CENTS! The cost of WiFi service at the marina is separate. Pat heads back to the boat. I use the Skype VOI to telephone several people then head back to the boat. 2230 - hit the sack.

01-27-06 (Fri.), Slip, Nassau Yacht Haven, Nassau, Bahamas (N25.04.514, W77.19.004):
0730 - Up, coffee & 1/2 bagel. (What am I going to do when I run out of Bagels!). BP 30.40, temp 72, partly cloudy, windy. Cold front is moving in and everyone is staying here until Monday before heading south to the Exumas. Sailing group ladies have arranged a bus tour of the island and the Bacardi Rum factory!

0930 - Take bus tour of the island and rum factory. Lots of free samples and everyone is feeling "pretty good" on the return trip. 1330 - Pat has discovered that she has a loose filling and needs to have it fixed. Its Friday and many dentists are closed in the afternoon. However, marine office manages to find one that will take Pat on short notice. 1430 - Catch a taxi to the dentist. He was trained at Howard University in Washington. Does an excellent job.  1630 - Return to marina.  1645 - There is a sailors' "Happy Hour" scheduled for 1600 to 1900 hr at the Nassau Harbor Yacht Club and the group is invited. Its about 4 blocks down from the marina and we walk. Groups are starting to arrive. Bev & Arne, Cindy & Lee, and Jim from our group are already there: Free chicken strips, wings and legs (Excellent) as well a chips and cheese dip. Beers are $3/bottle... very cheap for Nassau! 1930 - Pat and I are tired and return to the boat. 2030 - hit the sack.

01-28-06 (Sat.), Slip, Nassau Yacht Haven, Nassau, The Bahamas (N25.04.514, W77.19.004):
0600 - Up & Breakfast. BP 30.04, Temp 75, clear, windy. Fair amount of wind last night with some bouncing in the harbour. Its pleasant here, however, we are anxious to get underway to visit the "real" Bahama islands. Looks like we will not get out until Monday or Tuesday. 0930 - Ladies decide to take a bus tour to Paradise Island and the famous Atlantis Resort Casino. I stayed onboard to change the engine antigalvanic corrosion "zinc" (anode) and the diesel filter. I was surprised to find that the engine zinc was completely gone! I had it replaced last July before we left. However, they seem to last years in fresh water; need to check them more frequently in salt water. Fortunately I had picked up extras for the Weal Sea's diesel engine and our dinghy's outboard. Diesel fuel filter looked fine. However, it has clogged unexpectedly in the past and I want to change it now before we get into the "out islands". Fuel there can be dirty.
2015 - Hit the sack.

01-29-06 (Sun.), Slip, Nassau Yacht Haven, Nassau, The Bahamas (N25.04.514, W77.19.004):
0630 - Up & breakfast. BP 30.02, Temp 75, partly cloudy. 1000 - Walked to shopping mall to check for free WiFi HotSpots. Someone said the UPS store has one. No luck... they are closed, but market is open. 1300 - Pat does laundry. Met lady from Ireland. They have a 48 ft sailboat and have been doing the islands before returning to Ireland. 1430 - We walk back to mall with Cindy & Lee Smith (s/v Tranquility to get groceries. No luck, they just closed! We'll have to return tomorrow morning early. They group is leaving before noon for Rose Cay to anchor out before departing for the Exumas on Tuesday, assuming the weather holds. Return to marina where Pat and I visit a "diving shop" where we purchase a set of swim fins and floatation vest for Pat. She already has a mask and snorkel. I also pick up a setup for spear fishing and lobstering.

1700 - Robert & Michael (s/v Sunshire Express) arrive at dinghy dock! We had originally met them on the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal last October. They were well ahead of us in getting to Florida and had crossed over to Freeport on Grand Bahama Island on New Years Eve. They had sailed down to Nassau last Tuesday and are now anchored out in the harbour. They have come into the marina to shop and checkout the WiFi system. We spend a couple of hours with them at the marina restaurant where I show Robert how to use Skype VOI on his laptop. He then telephoned his daughter in Montreal, Canada. 1800 - Return to boat. The group has been invited over to Tranquility for a BYO Happy Hour to discuss tomorrow's sailing schedule. Looks like we will leave before noon and sail to Rose Cay, about 5-6 miles east to Nassau Harbour. 2100 - Return to boat. I make a few Skype VOI phone calls then hit the sack.

NOTE: Since we are leaving Nassau tomorrow, we will not have access to the Internet for some time. Thus, this will likely be the last Weal Sea's Log email I am able to send until we reach Georgetown in the Exumas. We will try to send email updates of the log at that time.

01-31-06 (Tues), Anchorage, Nassau Harbour, Nassau, Bahamas (N25.04.55, W77.18.65):
0600 - Up & Breakfast. BP 30.20, Temp 75, Clear, Winds SW 10-15. 0715 - Our five boats weigh anchor and head east out of harbour: Weal Sea (Dan & Pat), Scandia (Arne & Bev), Tranquility (Lee & Cindy), Non-Linear (John & Marcia) & Chapulin (Jim & Nancy). We'll use the following Explore Chartbook (THE BEST & most reliable charts for the Bahamas) waypoints to Allens Cay: start Nassau Habour anchorage (N25.04.55, W77.18.65) => Athol Island (N25.04.40, W77.17.20) => Porgee Rock (N25.03.70, W77.14.70) => west end of Yellow Bank (N24.52.50, W77.10.00) => Allens Cay (N24.44.80,W76.51.00). Total distance ~ 36 nm. Because of her shallow draft (~ 4.5 ft), Weal Sea could cut directly across the Yellow Bank (a shallow region on the Great Bahama Banks S of New Providence Island where Nassau is located, depth 2.2 - 4.8 meters MLW [Mean Low Water] in different areas) saving several miles. However, s/v Tranquility and others draw 6-7.5 ft and are concerned about not being able to see "shallower" coral heads in the rough seas. Therefore, they prefer to go to S end of the Yellow Bank. 1305 - Arrive Allens Cay. Weal is the first to enter the anchorage. (NOTE - Our chart plotter's C-Map of the Bahamas is worthless for entering the anchorage. No details of the Bahamas at all. You MUST USE "Explorer Chartbooks" (paper charts) if you do the Bahamas. They are like the Bible to Bahamas cruisers.

(NOTE - We purchased all 3 of Monty & Sara Lewis's" Explore Chartbooks": the (1) Near Bahamas, the (2) Far Bahamas and the (3) Exumas & Ragged Islands. We also have Steve Dodge's "The Cruising Guide to the Abacos" with excellent color photos of the cays and their surrounding waters with anchorage entry data. In addition, Stephen Pavlidis's 3 books on the Bahamas are a nice supplement with good charts of approaches to the cays, their anchorages & detailed text including history about the various cays).

There are 25 boats already anchored here! Very crowded. This Cay has a V-shaped anchorage running N-S. The east leg, next to Leaf Cay with all the Iguanas, is best holding according to the Explorer and Pavlidis books. However, everyone knows this and the boats are packed very tight here. Also, the water thins (gets shallow) very fast as you move N up the east leg. I turn around dodging anchored boats and go to the base of the "V" of the west leg where we drop anchor in 13 ft of water (N24.44.890, W76.50.320). We let out 90 ft (50 chain + 40 rope) since there is strong current here. However, at least its not crowded... YET. Water is incredibly clear! A fellow with 1999 Mark II C-34 s/v "Tickitac" (veterinary anesthesia technician from Univ of Minn) is anchored next to us and volunteers to check our anchor using a viewing bucket. Its well set in sand. The other boats of our group come in 15 minutes later. All, except Chapulin, try to anchor in east leg.

Chapulin anchors 30 yds in front of us. Tranquility tries to go N up the shallower east leg (which we gave up on earlier) and runs aground! However, several other boaters in dinghies make like as "tugs" and help push her bow around while she uses her 65 lb plow anchor as a kedge with her electric winches (Lee & Cindy's Sparkman - Stevenson boat has all the "toys"). We wanted to help but discover our dinghy is leaking air AGAIN and we can't help them. Tranquility finally gets free but anchor in only 8.5 ft with their nose 20 ft from the stern of another boat. Scandia anchors behind us but to the east in another spot I rejected. (Another boat comes in later and anchors next to him!) Non-liner anchors adjacent to Leaf Cay 150 yds to the east of us. Five more boats now come in! Just as we were feeling secure, a 45 ft ketch comes in behind us and anchors within 20 yds of our stern. I warn their captain that I have out 90 ft of anchor line and that I need room to swing (General Rule of Anchorages: It's first come, first serve. If you come into an anchorage, you pick a spot away from those boats already at anchor. Don't expect them to move for you!) He backs off a bit but I am still uncomfortable. I tell him, "If we swing during the night and bump, its your fault for anchoring too close." He says OK.

1630 - We are able to inflate the dinghy (its a slow leak) and use it to row to shore to see the Iguana which crowd the beach. They have no fear of humans & come out of the underbrush when people approach wanting to be fed. They are harmless but near sighted and have been know to bite an ankle thinking its a morsel of food. There are about 10-15 women sunbathing on the beach among the iguana, some pretty scantly clad! A "tour" speedboat arrives with 15-20 tourist and beaches the bow on the beach. These boats come all the way from Nassau so the tourists can feed the iguana and sharks (up at the other end of the cays!). Return to boat and relax for rest of day. Group has decided to go to Warderick Wells Cay, the main cay of Exuma Land and Sea! (a "national") Park tomorrow. 2030 - hit the sack.

Pat & Dan Harrington
s/v Weal Sea

 

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